The trend now days is towards infloor heat. Infloor heating systems operate at 120 degrees as opposed to 180 degrees for Radiant baseboard heat. Because infloor systems work at 120 degrees, you can use a condensing boiler which has efficiencies which compare to forced air systems. Some claims are up to 98% efficient, but 94% is typical. Your highest efficiencies come when you can condense the combustion gases which is impossible with a system that operates at 180 degrees. Uponor (Formerly Wirsbo) was the innovator from Sweden. When you are near a cold surface such as a wall, you will feel colder than the room temperature. When you have a warm floor, you will feel warmer than the room temperature. Infloor heat is great to walk on with bare feet and great for kids to play on the floor. Stay warm! Dan Martyn Here is a link that might be useful: UPONOR

Here is what I would do if I was you. You don't need that many btu's to heat up them two rooms. Plus you want to get hot water also. haved a certified takagi tankless water rep. come to your home. ( this will be free ) tell him you want a tk-3 pro. ( better heat exchange in the unit itself) it can fire up to 199,000 btu's and down to 11,000 btus. then you want to use a bronze bump with a heat exchanger on one side, plus boiler trim. (1/6 horse power. with a mixing valve for your domestic water. you want to then put two zones on other sided of a heat exchanger with a zone board for 2 zones with 2 pumps one for the baseboard. Ask for high trim baseboard so you can set the water temp down and get max btu's per lininer foot. set the temp for 150 degress durring the winter cold month. Now for the radiant floor get a viega dealer in ur neighborhood. get climate panels that you can put cement nails in and the put a flooring on top. If you wanted to know more about this rout just leave a post. you can have all 3 comming off one unit. The best thing about this type of set up is that you dont need 180 degree water like a boiler. and in summer time you can set the water temp down to 120 or 115. and when your away on vacation you use no gas. The down side is hat the climate panels can be expensive, the tankless water heater has to have a nice size gas line. the equipment to do this job can get pricy. I mean really pricey. with nice equipment comes a good price. Takagi & viega are my brand of choice. but you could use navian and wirlsboro if you wish. all 4 manufactors will be happy to come to your home and sit dowwn and talk to you. ( I sell all four)

Do you have a boiler or a fuirnace with a heating coil in it. I think uyou have the heating coil. Go to first company.com and then get either a water heater or a tankless water heater with primery seconday loop.

Just some thoughts on improving your existing setup (it's probably got 20+ years' service life left): 1. Don't use a heating boiler for domestic hot water, especially in the summer. 2. Convert to gas if you're currently burning oil (and be sure to carefully clean heat transfer surfaces). 3. Provide as many zones as you can afford, schedule the temperatures with programmable thermostats; use one circulator with multiple zone valves instead of multiple circulators. 4. Arrange for fire on demand (if you have a cast iron boiler - don't do this with a steel boiler). 5. Provide a reset control to limit boiler temperature when it fires (I always liked Honeywell T475A); install the water sensor in the pipe, don't just strap it to the pipe surface. (This is another one not to do if you have a steel boiler). 6. Put in a stack damper (make sure it works properly). Had a good time with this stuff in my first home, a 1930's semidetached; started with a new Weil-McLain oil fired and went from there, over a 24 year period.