You get used to cooking with whatever you have really. We now have both a 36" convection gas range and a 30" electric convection wall oven. Why? Wanted two ovens first and foremost. Already had the gas hook up and the electric there to run both in our house. To run an electric double oven would have required electrical work to be done for the extra load. So, most cost effective for use was to get an AG range and then add a single electric wall oven under counter to give us our second oven. I've said on previous post that the thought was also that it would give us the best of both worlds, but the reality is for us that you learn to cook whatever you want in whatever you have. On the particular brands we have the gas has the circulating fan and the rear. We've only used it on convection a couple of times so far. Not because it is gas, but more because it takes a while to heat the 36" oven space as compared to the 30 oven we have so we tend to use the wall oven a bit more. Not a gas/electric issue for us, just a habit now. On ours, as with any range/oven you're not familiar with yet, it has been a gradual learning curve. The first time we used the convection on the gas one we put in a full sheet of shortbread and it seemed to be browning faster directly by the fan than it was elsewhere. Upon reflection, we had not adjusted the temperature down (which you have to do with this brand) to account for the convection feature. Think they suggest something like 25 degrees less. The next time we used convection was with pizza on a stone on the bottom rack of the oven. This time it worked great with the dough puffing up nicely, getting a good crust and the toppings and cheese cooking evenly. Our electric wall oven has a different process for convection. Don't remember the sales jargon on what it is called, may have been "European Convection" or some such. Basically we have the hidden lower element, exposed upper broil element and there is also an element back in where the fan is at the back. When we've used convection it has worked well. We've used it for chips and they come out evenly crisp. We've also used it for pita type pizzas, but there you are just melting the toppings, crisping the pita and browning things. Even so has worked well, but we still find that we tend to swap trays with multiple layers to just be on the safe side with all being done evenly. Might just be appearances and still learning how to use both ovens, but does seem to brown the tops of those things higher up in the oven a bit faster than those below it. May again be a temperature setting issue perhaps. I guess what I'm rambling on about really boils down to get what you like. I really can't say one type is vastly superior to the other across the board especially for general consumer home use. You can cook well with all it is just a matter of the learning curve to find what works. For us, just having two ovens is bliss no matter that one is electric and one is gas. Also no matter that the appliances don't match. They are all stainless and the slight variation from brand to brand is no big deal. We looked at many kitchen books for higher end kitchens and I would say 99.9% of them had different brand appliances in the kitchen. Saw many pictures of kitchens with ranges with the big commercial range handles and then the wall ovens had graceful curved modern look handles on them. Looked just fine. Go to Lowes or HD and look through the idea books. Just a matter of finding what you like, the quality, what works in your design and what works for your budget. I can only remember one telly show where a realtor made an issue that the appliances did not match due to different brands. I really think that the statement the realtor made was more from lack of experience with that level of kitchen/home perhaps (just from what I've seen with the multitude of books we looked at) if that makes sence. Oh, and for us, we also went range and single wall oven for the ease and cost of install issues. Your situation is your situation, but for us it was cheaper (as you mentioned counter wise etc) to pop in a 36" AG with 6 burners and then just build a cabinet to hold the wall oven under counter. Best of luck with it! Cheers

beth answers going down your list.... 1.length of life can vary depending on use, environment, yearly PMs, and quality of original install I personally believe 15 yrs min is a good target for good equipment and believe me there are some real junk HVAC on the market 2.you can not compare today's HPs against those 10 yrs and older. as different as night and day especially in the area of supply temp. Supply temp on a properly charged HP should easily be in low 90s depending on outside temperature. one reason I put in a dual fuel system was because while I liked the idea of operating savings of electric vs nat gas, I was somewhat skeptical of the acceptibility by myself and family as far as comfort. No problem. it is fine. In fact, I wish I had gone with an air handler rather than backup var speed furnace. This past season I used about 60 therms of nat gas for heating as the heat pump did the primary heating. 3.I really think you are confused on question 3. Temperature is temperature regardless of the speed it is delivered. On today's high eff furnaces that are two stg (newest mdls can have three stgs) models with var speed blowers, the heat that is delivered is what I call soft, quiet, gentile heat as opposed to the conventional furnaces that deliver very hot noisy heat. The temperature from the high eff var speed condensing furnaces while higher than today's high eff heat pumps is lower than the hot blast of non condensing furnaces. You may get some debate on this subject but based on my measurements that statement is correct. 4.There is no such thing as a dual fuel heat pump. A heat pump with backup furnace(as opposed to an air handler with heat strip backup) is called a dual fuel or hybrid application. The operating savings depends on the price of electricity and price of nat gas as well as the efficiency of equipment for a high eff heat pump and nat gas furnace. A heat pump provides AC just the same as an AC condenser. I believe I have given you the fuel comparison calculator in your previous thread which offers an accurate indication of possible savings. I really believe you are overthinking your situation. These are the minimum specs I would use for HP selection. 15 SEER, 12 EER, 9 HSPF full BTUs in both heating and cooling mode matching var speed air handler or var speed furnace scroll compressor preferred electronic demand defrost thermostat that controls blower speed like the HW VisionPro IAQ IMO

The issue with replacing the lines is access. They are all hidden within finished drywall ceiling. Will replace if must but rather not tear into the ceilings. The lines are about 30' long at most. Based on the amount of total square footage I am leaning towards the 3 1/2 ton unit. Is that still OK with the lines I have and length? I am not sure why but two people have stated that the 410a can use smaller lines. If I stay with R22 I will need to increase the line size. I have been looking for information on line size requirements but not been able to find a simple easy to read chart. So I have been taking the sales reps word. I prefer to do my own research and validate what they say. The ductwork is fine according to everyone that has been out. I will be replacing all equipment with new. AC, airhandler and furnace. I do not have a heat pump and am using a gas furnace. Leaninng towards the R-410a version. Will be in the house for next 15 years, less to worry about I read it is more effecient, not much I understand. Due to the way they are made they should be more reliable PS I was able to find the link on the myths of R-410a someone had posted. Thanks for your feedback, I really appreciate it. Here is a link that might be useful: Myths on R-410a

Do You Have R-22 in Your Old AC System? Here’s What to Do: https://www.minisplitwarehouse.com/ Faced with the rising costs of R22 air conditioner repairs, the decline of available refrigerant supply, and the increase in price of refrigerant, deciding what to do with your system can be a complicated choice. We’re here to help you make the best, most educated choice for your home. You have choices: Recharge Retrofit Replace 1. RECHARGE WITH R-22 OUT WITH R-22, IN WITH R-410A The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is responsible for implementing the R-22 refrigerant phase out for the United States. By January 1, 2010, there was a ban on the production and import of R-22. As a result, manufacturers of heat pump and air conditioning equipment redesigned their systems to accommodate R-41 0A, a chlorine-free refrigerant compared to R-22. The refrigerant would soon replace R-22 in the new HVAC equipment. EPA regulations require a ban on the production and import of R-22 refrigerant by January 1, 2020. After 2020, any air conditioning or heat pump system using R-22 that requires servicing will have to depend on potentially expensive R-22 stockpiles or reclaimed refrigerant. The new ban on R-22 won’t affect homeowners that want to continue to utilize their functioning R-22 air conditioning systems. However, in the event that that equipment needs to be charged with refrigerant, there will be difficulties. 2. RETROFIT R-421A – REFRIGERANT FOR TOMORROW • Unique non-ozone depleting, long-term replacement for R22 refrigerant • Environmentally GREEN refrigerant • Replace R22 without unit modification • Does not contain hydrocarbons, such as Butane, lsopentane or lsobutane • Replaces R22 with no change of oil • Usable in compressors designed for R22 • Usable with Mineral, AB or POE oils Only 2-component blend to replace R22 • Non-flammable; Rated A 1 by ASH RAE • Comparable to R22 performance temperature range • Usable in a wide variety of applications 3. REPLACE So, how do you go about making that decision to repair or replace your older R22 air conditioner? How can you tell when a piece of equipment has outlived its useful life? Can you get your older unit to last another couple of years by fixing it? Or will you have to keep throwing money into it, especially as the price of R22 continues to skyrocket? Newer units are more energy efficient and can lower your electric bill, but can you manage the upfront cost? The unfortunate truth is, there is no cut and dried answer. But you can make the best decision to repair, retrofit or replace your R22 air conditioner when you know what factors to consider about your equipment and its history, and whom to trust for advice. THE RISK FACTOR Hanging on to an R22 air conditioner until the bitter end January 1, 2020 is when R22 will no longer be available at any price) does pose some risks, especially for a business that relies on air conditioning. When you finally need to replace, how long will you have to wait for a new system because you’re in line with everyone else who is force to replace their R22 air conditioner?