You all have made my Saturday. I was feeling like the hardest person in the world to get along with and now have had a good laugh and found people of a like mind. Had to go into town yesterday,did'nt feel like getting out of bed much less go to town and yep to Wally world. My pet peeve is those #^*% squares of pills that each pill has to be dug out with a jack hammer. I had to get some benydryl caps. I looked at the box and thought of those nasty little pockets of pills and walked over to the pharmicist and told them my arthritic fingers refused to mess with them and if they wanted to sell them they could take them out of the package and put them in a bottle and go complain to the company that packaged them. To my surprise they complied without a murmer. I've felt like a monster ever since. Now i feel better. Now i can have a lot of fun sometimes with these young whipper-snappers(have'nt heard that in a long time)that have the little ole lady syndrome. I will make slaves out of them while i'm in the store. "Can you hand me that can, it's just out of my reach (About 2" above me) and that bottle over there. I can't make up my mind do i want wood glue or gorrilla glue? On the one hand..........but on the other hand...........or maybe just plain Elmers glue." If i'm not in a hurry i can keep them tied up for 5 min.or more. My DD is worse than i am. She makes a hobby of returning anything that has a flaw in it,if it only cost .50 and she loves to argue about unfair practices. She made an art of that when she was a teenager at home than found out it would work with people outside the family. LOL

If the shed and the sturdy shelf is made of wood, it is a good idea to provide a grounding provision for the tank and for any machines that will be fueled at the site. Probably the best bet would be to drive a ground rod 8 feet into the soil outside the shed. Locate it into the soil at the drip end of the roof, or near where a downspout empties if there are gutters. The ground rod does not need to be driven "straight down", it can be driven at a shallow angle. Dig a small hole about 1 foot in diameter and drive the rod inside the hole so that when you are finished driving, the end of the rod is below the soil surface. Or you can dig a trench 8 feet long and 1 foot deep and simply lay the ground rod in the trench. Connect a #4 solid copper ground wire to the rod using the "tear drop" style ground clamp and run the copper ground wire inside the shed by whatever means is convenient. If it suits you to slip the ground wire under the bottom of your wall (if dirt floor) or make a small hole for the wire to enter. The wire does not have to reach all the way to the storage drum, but it does need to terminate inside the building. Once the ground wire is inside the building you can connect to it using 14 or 12 gauge stranded automotive wire. A good way to make a sound connection point on the #4 ground wire is to use a #4 electrical eyelet terminal and solder that (rosin core solder only) directly to the end of the ground wire. After you have the eyelet terminal in place, you can fabricate 2 grounding cables (one for the fuel storage tank, one for the machine to be fueled) with eyelet terminals and attach them to the ground wire eyelet. I suggest using stainless steel machine screws/bolts to do the attaching or use a generous amount of antiseize compound or electrical "No Co Rode" compound. To attach the ground cable to the tank and the machine to be fueled you can simply fit the cables with alligator style clamps. Leave the cable to the storage tank clipped in place all the time. Connect the ground cable to the machine needing fuel before you do anything else when refueling. You had better make it a habit to drape the cable for the machine across the seat or the ignition key switch before you clip it onto something or you will at some point drive off and at least mess up something about that cable. That is why I do not recommend the machine ground cable to be run directly to the fuel storage tank, too much chance of you doing a "drive off" with a ground cable connecting the machine to the storage tank. I consider it important to use 2 separate ground cables to serve the 2 functions. The ground rod is a standard NEC approved grounding electrode. It and the teardrop clamp and #4 copper ground wire are available at any electrical supply house or a good home improvement store. If you choose to do the trench method instead of drive rod method you cab substitute a 10 foot length of 1/2" copper water pipe for the 8 foot driven rod. In this option you can flatten about 1" of the copper pipe and drill a 1/4" hole in it. Your 12 or 14 gauge ground cables can then be attached to this hole with eyelet terminals. Beware, the eyelets MUST be soldered to the ground cables (rosin core solder only) and stainless steel fasteners used to make the connection to the hole in water pipe. Additionally I suggest you paint the entire juncture of ground cables to pipe, including about 6" or so of each cable with liquid vinyl electrical compound. Be sure to consider that the cables used this way may need to be given some protection from physical damage (weed eaters, lawn mowers too close, etc.) so you might want to drive a sturdy metal bar/rod into the ground so that the cables are behind the protector as they leave the trench and enter the shed. If the shed is constructed of metal and is sitting atop a concrete slab (anchored to slab) you need only make 2 ground cables with alligator clips on one end of each cable (on all 4 ends if desired). Use one ground cable to connect between the storage tank and the metal structure of the building. Use the other cable to connect between the metal building structure and the machine to be fueled.

Hmmm....I had a really scary gasoline accident a few years back. The pump malfunctioned and I was drenched in gasoline, sox, shoes, jeans, shirt all but my hair. I was a walking fire hazard and scared to death. I begged the gal behind the counter to get some clean clothes out of my suitcase in the trunk ( thankfully I was travelling at the time) and changed clothes in the rest room, rinsed out what I had on in the sink with a little hand soap, wrung them out and dumped them in the trunk and drove the 150 miles home...opening the window frequently to get rid of the stink. When I got home, I put my clothes on the deck to dry and evaporate any gas and then dumped them into the washer. Smell all gone....from the clothes, washer and from the car too. I think you need tow ash in something besides that "All-free"...I used that for a while and had trouble with lingering odors. Get some good old Tide or Whisk to get rid of the gasoline odor....then rinse in baking soda to get rid of anything in the tide that might make you itch. Linda C

My mom washed my dad's clothes (mechanic, then truck driver) all the time - though separately. I'd prewash the sleeve, then let hang dry, see if the smell comes out. Then I'd throw it in with the rest of the heavy-duty laundry (jeans). If prewashing doesn't take the smell out, wash it separately and again spin it out on heavy duty cycle (give it extra spin if necessary) then hang. I wouldn't put it in the dryer if it still smelled.