Hi...I've been scratching too!! I hope my three didn't die om me. I haven't seen a thing. At least Lowes has them and I do have a couple of Siam Ruby bananas. Oh well :):) Margaret

Updates on my various cuttings These are the ones that cooked. They haven't shriveled up yet (except one, which was growing from a mostly dead leaf already) and I'm not sure I can see any new growth. The roots look almost okay. The same day that happened, I pulled off some Graptoveria Moonglow leaves to propagate and replace the leaves I'd killed. This time just left them on a piece of paper in a box, no water, just indoor light. And look! You can barely see in the photo but the first three on the bottom have some really tiny growth. The biggest has about four roots going out, the second has a single leaf, and the third has a leaf and roots growing. Lastly, dropped leaves I might have grabbed from the nursery, which had already been developing roots when I found them. Top is E. Pearl von Nuremburg and bottom is E. Chroma, which seems to have exploded tons of roots and what looks like three stems with rosettes. The Pearl von Nuremburg is growing slower, but I find the one giant leaf it has funny.

hmm tdogmom, I was looking at your blog.. AWESOME! Oh, and yep that one was dead. I injected it with alcohol to preserve it and it is now part of the butterfly collection. The patch of milkweed I collected from has many of the symptoms you showed as problems. I will check a new area. I did have one butterfly that would just flutter to the ground. It had access to fresh flowers and the sugarwater mix. I gave it lots of chances then decided it was doomed. I gave it a special spot in my collection. I made an enclosure using metal rings and a soft white netting. It is 18 inches in diameter and about 5 feet long. It hangs in my office. I placed a dish in the bottom and have a jar in there to place fresh flowers for the new butterflies to land on. SInce the ends overlap, they cannot escape into the house. Once my cats go into chryssalis I hang them in the net enclosure. lots of flying room and easy to see.

Chisue, I have a similar model, and when I was researching a problem it was having I found descriptions of problems like yours. IIRC problems with spinning are either associated with the spin control board or with the door latch. I think there is a relatively simple test (with a voltmeter or ohmmeter) that can determine which of the two likely issues it is. If it is the spin control board, I think it is costs something like $300 which IMO is a price selected to cause you to buy a new machine, For a long time appliance parts have been overpriced to dissuade you from repairing rather than replacing the device, but recently the level of overpricing has become very much larger, and rather than providing individual components they've gone to only providing larger subsystems, for which there are often no alternative sources for the subsystem, and for which they can charge whatever they want. The problem with my similar washer was that although the machine would do each of the individual steps involved in running a cycle, it wouldn't advance from one step to the next. Information I found pointed to the timer control module, and specifically to the timer motor on that module. Of course the timer motor wasn't available separately, and while similar (newer) models used a similar timer control module that cost about $150, for my particular specific model the timer module was about $300. While the $150 version may have worked just fine there is no way to tell, the parts places assert you can only use the exact replacement part. In the end I found a near exact replacement timer motor for about $25, installed into the existing timer control model, and it has been working great. With my fridge (which is about 10 years old) the ice maker has stopped working for the third time. The first two times it was an electric eye ice level sensor that stopped working. The sensor consists of two small circuit boards, one that generates an infrared beam of light, and the other that if it doesn't detect the IR beam will disable the ice maker thinking the ice bin is full. Each time it has failed it has been the postage stamp-sized IR emitter board that has failed, which only has about 4 components, however, of course they only sell both boards together as a pair. The first time it failed the price for OEM replacement of both boards was about $30, the next time a couple of years later, the price for the OEM boards was about $85. Just now I checked and the current price to buy OEM replacement boards is $196 plus $8 shipping, which is marked down from the list price of $233. Knockoff versions are available for a more reasonable $25 but given that its likely to be the IR emitter board -- again -- that should cost only about $5, and the likely failed component, the IR LED probably costs just a couple of pennies. While dadoes is right that knowing the exact model is important, sometimes similar models use exactly the same parts, with different part numbers, which can cost very different prices. A dryer I own recently needed the rear support bearing replaced. The parts website steered me toward just the part that mounts on the back of the drum at a price of $40, but the same place offered a bearing replacement kit which included that part, the nylon bracket that mounts on the back wall of the machine, a tube of lubricant, and a few other needed parts, all for $13.