I am in the process of hanging a chimney island hood so I have been planning my install steps and working with an HVAC guy. To answer your questions, your DH is correct. The crimped end is inserted in the duct and the straight end goes on the outside of the collar since the air is moving in that direction. Your DH needs to make sure that the hood is the correct distance for the 6" pipe. If it is correct, I would plan on only lowering the hood far enough to get the pipe on the collar of the hood. I plan on using saw horses to support mine (make sure you put a towel or something on the saw horses so as not to scratch the hood). Put the pipe on the collar and tape (the shiny foil tape is better than duct tape) to seal so air cannot leak (less air leakage, less noise). The tape will also stabilize the pipe. At this point raise the hood and insert crimped end into the duct and attach the hood to the wall. Again tape the pipe to the duct to seal. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the responses guys, Yes, this is the picture. Nice to see that the owner of this awesome kitchen (nhbaskets) is still around and following the discussions as to whether or not I'll steal your crown idea ;-) I do all my own work, so there is no GC involved. I have already done all the room crown and have tried the chimney both with and without crown already. In fact, it's up now, just have not decided if I want to leave it. Yeah, it's a pain to attach, but not impossible. I can't decide which way I think looks better, so I was wondering if there was a standard way to do it. Also, with the crown you can not easily remove the chimney cover, should you ever have to. Now from what I'm hearing, the standard way seems to be to not wrap the crown around the chimney, but the reason seems to be based on how *difficult* it is rather than what actually looks best. Is there anyone else out there who has a crown-wrapped SS chimney? Any pictures?

To be even slightly informed about this subject, you would have to read quite a few hood and make-up air (MUA) related threads on this forum. We could also point you to commercial literature that one might extrapolate from. I can provide a somewhat standard spiel touching on the highlights. I cannot provide reviews of hoods I haven't owned. There are two maxims that one might keep in mind. (a) Performance, aesthetics, affordable cost -- pick two. (b) The most efficient hoods (cooking plume capture and containment performance per watt of electricity usage) are commercial hoods. For an idea of commercial hood design and function, read the first dozen pages of the Greenheck Guide, available from: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf. What a hood system is expected to accomplish is capture and containment. Capture is effected by having a hood canopy that overlaps the rising and expanding cooking effluent plumes so that these plumes pass into the hood volume, preferably under their own power. Containment is effected by pulling the plumes through the hood filter system -- preferably baffles for most serious hoods -- and thence via the ducting to the outside. Containment requires adequate volumetric flow rate (CFM in the USA). Flow rate achieved depends on the blower selected and the pressure losses moving air through the baffles, through the hood, through the ducting, and through the roof or wall cap to outside, and then, most importantly, the pressure losses in getting fresh outside air back into the kitchen (MUA). Flow rate required depends on the velocity of the cooking plumes and the area of the hood entry aperture. Obviously, one wants the achieved flow rate to equal the required flow rate. But wait, there's more: The specified flow rate for blowers is that achieved at zero pressure loss. The flow rate at some pressure loss is less, just like strangling a water hose decreases water flow. One has to specify a blower strong enough that for the conditions present the desired flow rate can be achieved. (Not otherwise addressed here are the desirable hood features of lighting and blower control.) Fortunately, in many cases we can apply rules of thumb to the selection criteria. Some arithmetic is required. Overlap the hood by at least 3 inches relative to the cooktop or range top on all sides not including a wall. For a 24 inch [front-to-back] range, achieving a 27 inch wall hood may be difficult or interfere with sight lines or head position; in such a case a 21 or 24 inch hood front-to-back depth may do with some plume escape possible. Calculate the area of the hood aperture in square feet and multiply by 90 ft/min to find desired CFM. Multiply that result by 1.5 to roughly find a specified CFM that should work. Choose a duct diameter per the hood installation directions, but the goal is an air velocity in the duct between 1000 and 2000 ft/min. This equals the desired CFM divided by the duct sectional area in sq. ft. Choose duct paths that minimize length and bends, but these are not prohibited. MUA is an entire topic by itself. The goal is to allow air to get from the outside to the kitchen, heated or not depending on circumstances, and lightly filtered, such that the pressure loss from outside to inside is low. In some cases, this may require a blower in the MUA duct. Many simple configurations are possible, along with more complex ones. Search out MUA threads here. Overall, the hood and MUA systems can reach the same price as a high-end range price, and easily exceed the price of an economical induction cooktop.

We have a chimney style stainless hood and our ceilings are less than 8'. I found it on Build.com (I believe it's kitchenaid I wouldn't recommend my particular hood though). You can filter your search on that site by ceiling height. I'll post a photo shortly.