I picked Waterlox because from everything that I read I felt it was superior to all other finishes in preventing water damage. I don't really care much about scratching, our floor is far from perfect anyway. There is even a 4" round burn depression from what we figured a log rolling out of the fireplace. I also liked soaking the old wood with oil thinking that's got to be better for it. And soak in it did on our floor! The color went from a tan color to dark brown. It's pretty and I like it but a bit darker than I originally intended. We refinished the dining room at the same time as the kitchen which was a total area of 15'x24' and 4 coats used 3 gallons, the first coat took 1 1/2 gal. We also had some places we had to patch with new wood and the new wood barely changed colors, so I had to stain the new pieces to match the old wood. If you stain you have to get the non-sealing type stain, I used a mixture a various zar stains to get the color right. We ordered the low VOC version online because living in PA we could only get the regular version in quarts and my environmentalist friend would have KILLED me if I didn't get the low VOC. For the installation we pretty much followed the directions on the Waterlox web site. I think for waterlox it is ABSOLUTLY critical to have smooth floors. We thought ours were sanded well, but while putting on the first coat with the lambskin applicator the graining started to raise up and I started to catch splinters on the board edges. Anyway the first step (after sanding to smooth) is to clean with mineral spirits. The next step is to start applying the first coat of waterlox. I wore socks so no oils other than waterlox would get on the floor. And waterlox needs airflow to cure properly so I placed a fan at one of the entrances and the other in the window opposite. It also helped keep the smell from getting out of hand because it sure does STINK! I had some trouble with the sheepskin shedding and was thinking I should have used a brush, but later I found online that I was supposed to clean the applicator with mineral spirits first. I didn't find out that tidbit of info until after I went around the next day picking out the lint on my hands and knees. Also the instructions says there is no need to sand in between coats, but I found it necessary, followed by a tack cloth, to get a smooth finish. Allow each coat to dry 24 hours and then apply the next coat up to 4 coats. For oak they recommend 3 coats, but for my century+ wood the first coat was soaked in before I moved to the next area that I thought 4 coats would be better. Also it didn't seem to matter if I went with the grain or against, I guess with the lambswool there are no brush marks. After the last coat we stayed off it for 7 days and because I wanted to get ready for our big holiday dinner we moved the furniture in and did end up scratching the floor in a couple of spots, but those cleared up with a rag and some mineral spirits. Now after four months, not even dragging chairs and moving furniture faze it. I used the original sheen for all coats because I wanted the strongest finish and it was quite shiny, but now its a cross between satin and gloss and very easy to keep clean. I'll be looking forward to seeing your progress marthavila! Do you have any pictures of your AGA yet? It's taken us quite some time ourselves and I expect it to take even more before we are done (is done even possible in an old house?). The kitchen planning started 2 years ago with plans to expand we even hired a home designer, but we ended up not using her plans and I redid the whole thing last year keeping everything within the same footprint going back to the houses original rooms. I did have to make comprises, the laundry is tight and my pantry is much reduced (I still have a large pantry in the basement) and I don't have a mudroom, but it does have the things I most wanted. I'm hoping I have a new kitchen by Christmas and the back end re-do next year which includes the nook, laundry, bathroom and my office. Some day, sigh...

sayde, I think the biggest difference I've noticed is the finish. Crown Point's paint finish, both their classic and milk paint, is gorgeous. I prefer a very matte finish and even with the 10% sheen, the Cabico cabinets seem a little glossier. CP's finishing is done by hand and is very elaborate. Another thing is the detailing. Crown Point's product looks more like furniture to me. For example, the toekicks aren't added on, they're all one piece with the frame. And look at this corbel: As far as quality of construction, for an upcharge I can upgrade to all plywood boxes with Cabico. As far as I can tell Cabico's drawer construction and undermount hardware are of similar quality to CP's. Aside from quality and detail, the other big factor that had me leaning toward Crown Point was that the CP designer is much more in tune with my style. Her kitchens are in my inspiration file, while the other KD's kitchens appear very run-of-the-mill, cookie-cutter to me. Good luck with your continuing research!

One wipe does the fridge, stove and microwave trim as well as the sink faucet. I think stainless has come a long way. My appliances are all Bosch. Bunny, up north, I have a Kitchen Aid stove. The top is black and doesn’t show the scratches as much as a stainless top would.

Looks the same to me, except that they chose the premium slab for their model home. Your 2nd picture has that same type of "defect" by the reflection of the can light. It's real granite, all natural with what ever Mother Nature created. I wish that builders let the home owner see the actual slab before fabrication to avoid these surprises with natural stone...the slabs have a certain degree of variation to them. Congrats on your 1st home!