Hi - linking this to your other post on this so all the info will be in one place. Saves us having to ask all the same questions again over and over. ;) Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Why are my tomatoes rotting...

Thanks , Brick. That will be a last resort as we'd like everything to match up original but might end up being the route we have to take. I can't believe the outfit we bought it from doesn't know the valve mfgr, but i guess that's how it goes these days. Another e-mail to them got a response that they are still on it, so we will see what happens. F.I.Y., Alfono stems out of N.Y. has many valves that you can see online through their online catalogs. They had some that were close, or might even work with other trim rings, but for your own future reference, they seem to have a lot of inventory. Here's the link: Here is a link that might be useful: Alfano stems and valves

I have 17 motion sensors in my home, one being the laundry room. (And about as many dimmers.) I totally support the switch, but not in the place you're suggesting he put it. It needs to be able to "see" you! These motion sensor sockets are available very inexpensively off catalogues such as Harriet Carter, so shop. As far as that office with a motion sensor? That's just dumb that someone hadn't set the timer on it. One sits still in an office, living room, den, and bedroom. Even with timers, they're going to click off. I find they've worked best for me in places someone isn't going to spend prolonged time still, such as: 1) Bathrooms (set to 10 minutes) 2) Laundry (set to 10 minutes) 3) Hallways (set to 2 minutes) 4) Mudrooms (set to 5 minutes) 5) Garage (set to 10 minutes) 6) Attic (set to 10 minutes) 7) Closets (set to 5 minutes) 8) Front Porch lights (set to 10 minutes, + light/dark sensor) 9) Security Lights (set to 10 minutes) These are all places I have them, and they're rooms where one would be moving about. The lights don't go off and back on if there is motion. They just stay on. I've saved myself $1000s over the 10 years I've had them in this home. I know. I've kept track of my power bills' kilowatt usage, cost, temperature, and bill amount since 2002. With solar panels, I wanted to see how much I was saving with these lights, with and without my now-ex-DH. $1000s. Hey. Be careful about the CFL light bulb type. I've learned the hard way that some aren't meant for motion sensors. I burned out 3 sockets before someone said, "Hey, did you know...? Lutron has a list of appropriate manufacturers. Then... we have LEDs. When the light is off, there's not supposed to be any electricity running through the socket. Well, much to my electrician's surprise, I wasn't an idiot when I told him the LED bulb flickered when there wasn't any motion to be detected. Claimed it just couldn't be happening. I just stared at him as we watch the light flickering in the bathroom, out of sight from the motion sensor. So...

You all have made me very happy because I really wanted to try the Pilar for my weird install, but I got to looking at the pics on line and wondered if it swiveled. And it does!!!!! So here's my plan: last week I lucked into buying a great used Elkay Lustertone sink at my local Habitat Store. It wasn't what I set out to buy, but one of those times where the unexpected filled the bill better than what I thought I wanted. I wasn't planning on a stainless steel prep, but this old sink was cheap ($10) and my husband said just buy it and we'll use it to try out the placement and utility to see if we like having a prep sink. So I got it and spent half a day scrubbing/polishing and, ulitmately, buffing it. What I wasn't expecting is that Lustertone is such lovely material that it cleans up so well. I got the rust, hard water scum, scratches, and vile grungy-faucet crud off completely. Tonight, it's sitting in my dining room, just glowing. The thing is, it's a top mount and I wanted an undermount, and it has three faucet holes. And it's rectangular 13.5 X 16.5. What to do...? So (since it's just a test sink anyway, I sez to myself), why not turn 90 degress so it's wider side-to-side rather than deeper front-to-back, because I think it was Buehl who mentioned that wider felt better to use. Then I decided to undermount it anyway with a positive reveal that follows along that little ridge that surrounds all drop sinks. This leaves the three holes located on a flat deck area about 3/16ths inch lower than the little ridge which I think will make things easier since I am plopping this baby in a wood countertop (IKEA BB) and the farther away the wood is from the water, the better. But now I have three visible holes running along the side of the sink deck, not at the back, as the sink was planned. However, this is going to be installed in a relatively narrow (28") island work surface that may sometimes have people using it from both sides, so not having a row of faucets sort of walling off the back of the sink from the other side would be good. If I orient it so the faucets are on the right side, I could arrange the three holes with (from farther back to closer) faucet, control lever and soap dispenser. That way users on the opposite side would have some use of the sink (may be not the soap dispenser). It won't be quite as convenient from the opposite as it will be from the principal side, though still OK, I think. But for this to work well, it was critical that the faucet swivel so it could be pushed a bit out of the way when need from either side. And you all tell me it does! Yeah! And once it's on, operators from both sides can turn it on with a touch. Perfect. Many thanks to all who answered my question so quickly and thoroughly. Can't beat the Kitchen Forum! L