Apparently, where you buy the Cabinet Coat makes a difference. I bought it at a Bruning Paint Center, and they had the codes to color match the Cabinet Coat to a shell white Duron color that I needed. If you have doubts about the color, you can buy a quart for about half the price of a gallon. Here is a link that might be useful: Bruning Paint Company

Palimpsest, Thanks for clarifying the visual aspect. Using the same dimensions for moulding makes sense now. I'll have to take off the crown from the bookcases in order to get the new moulding to fit, but that's ok. I think I'll be okay with having medium dark poplar crown covering dark mahogany bookcases. But what do you think? My mock-up is equivocal insofar as covering the bookcases looks better than coping the new crown to meet the bookcase crowns. I won't replace the base moulding on the bookcases because of the current height and presence of airvents. You've been a great help. If you have any other comments or suggestions, please advise.

Since you love the way the painted surface looks (others here, including me, also really like the simplicity of that look), why don't you just try painting with a good-quality washable paint and then letting it age and harden for a few weeks before scrubbing? If you should decide later on that you want an even more durable surface, then you could bring in tile.

Hi, Pauled99, I am not sure I understood your question exactly. It may be easiest for me to try to explain it in my terms. Both vertical pipes from the basement serve the same purpose they did originally. I just crossed them left-to-right before they came up from the basement. The leftmost copper pipe, which extends vertically from the basement and makes a right-angle turn to become horizontal and enters the galvanized tee in its middle port, only vents a sink in a bathroom in the basement. Obviously, the horizontal section is well above the flood rim of the basement fixture. The right copper pipe comes up from the basement, turns 90 deg to the right to become a horizontal drain (sloped at 1/4" per foot), turns vertical, and is teed into the stub-out for the kitchen sink with a sanitary tee. Above this tee, it is now considered a vent. It then turns 45 deg (remaining a "vertical" vent), and then turns 45 deg the other way to go into the bottom port of the galvanized tee. The vertical galvanized pipe vents both the basement and kitchen fixtures. In the basement, the two downpipes are joined by a sanitary wye below the point where the bathroom fixture joins the left-hand downpipe. The single drain then goes below the basement floor to join the main (?) house sewer line. After that picture was taken, I put steel plates over the stud notches to protect the pipes from screws/nails. The plumbing inspector took a look at the work, *briefly* thought about squawking about the galvanized tee before realizing it was strictly a vent at that point, and then admired the job and gave it a thumbs-up. If this explanation is not clear, feel free to ask a follow-up question. What I learned during this process is that the plumbing codes actually make sense, even if not at first to the uninitiated. For example, as a novice, I would have turned the drain for the sink vertically instead of horizontally, and teed it into the horizontal drain line. However, that would have made the section to the right of that tee into an illegal horizontal vent. Stuff that goes down the sink could splash to the right (i.e., upstream). Since there is no water flow there to wash it down, it could get lodged there and obstruct the vent. This was not obvious to the tyro, but makes sense to me now. Again, a thousand thanks to lazypup.