Glad this has turned into a more general thread. Fantastic pics and all very interesting and informative. By the way would anyone comment on, or point to a link detailing, the relative ease of care for the many cylindrical types out there? Here are SOME names noticed (mostly) in the forum archives here associated with "cylindrical" Sans comments (apologies for the probable errors, duplicates, aliases, varieties, and hybrids - and haven't seen pics for many to be sure of form - said I was a newbie). cylindrica cylindrica cylindrica desertii cylindrica ehrenbergii cylindrica patula cylindrica rorida cylindrica skyline ballyi canaliculata caulescens fernwood fischeri midnight star phillipsiae rhodesiana schweinfurthii singularis stuckyi(i) suffruticosa sulcata (bacularis, mikado) Thanks.

to make it narrower, follow "section 2 (increase rows)" until the measurement along the "short" side, (the edge with yarn-over holes), is ALMOST what you want widthwise. like it says "21" on that diagram. so, go through the 12-Row repeat until it looks or measures from that cast-on tip, up the holey side, a little less that what you want for width. (this will be ending right after making another one of those edge holes with the Yarn Over.) when it is slightly less than what you want, do the FINAL step of that "section 2", which is Repeating Rows 1-6 one last time. & then just move on to "section 3", where you can go forever, until you ALMOST like the length. once you stop & go on to "section 4" & the "5", your length will increase as you work to form the end point. the length from here to the end point with be the same as what you had on your needle when you stopped with your "section 2", because you are recreating that tip of the parallelogram in reverse now, (decreasing). i just did this again today. i have made several in varying widths & lengths, in everything from Cascade Lana d'Oro charcoal tweed (alpaca/wool/tweed, discontinued), to a laceweight. this is not a new technique, but rather a new pattern application & fancy choice of handpainted luxury yarn used in it that make it so spiffy looking. eMail me if you need any help or photos. (:

After the 2nd increase row, you are going to do 6 additional increase rows. You are to space them every 6 rows. Let's call the 2nd increase row Row 6, You will then increase in row 12, 18, 24, 30, 36 and 42. As you accumulate additional stitches, they are to be incorporated into your rib pattern. This is most easily done if you have one selvedge stitch and do your increase immediately after than stitch, since you can then make it a knit or purl, whatever fits into your rib pattern. The same thing can be done at the end of a row.

Your instructions say to kfb (knit in the front and back of the next stitch)your increase is made. Then rib to the last 19 stitches K2 tog then rib again to last 4. Are you clear with this section? The next section is trying to tell you to make the increases into the rib pattern as you go along.Such as k2, p2 or whatever rib pattern you are doing, so the ribs line up. Increase as you did above kfb at the beginning of the 6th row and every 6th row from then on. At the same time decrease (K2tog) once you reach the 19th stitch from the end as you did above on row 7 on every right side row. I hope this helps. If not let me know.