The only one I know of that would fit that is a Kitchenaid 42" built-in French Door model. Going above 36" means going built-in or to a pair of somethings, and you don't have room for that -- unless you have another wall and can separate the freezer and the fridge (ex: 30" fridge in that spot and a 30" freezer on another wall).

I'm not 100% sure that I could pick out something rustic, but here are a few I like which are not modern and have rolled arms with nail detail. Thomasville - Benjamin Motion Sectional (also has separate pieces) Bradenton-Young - Cartier sofas and chairs Macy's Passport Home - Miramar Let us know if you find something you like!

Thank you all for your many suggestions of type of info available and where to look. Would any of you be willing to speculate what might be going on in the following situation: A major developer bought a parcel of land for a major development (several hundred single family homes, some multi family units and rec facilities.) A gravel road to the parcel had a couple homes on it The developer is currently putting in the roads for the development and has paved the gravel road. This road will be the entrance to the development. The developer has recently bought (for about 150,000) and torn down one of the existing houses. The other existing house has been on the market for over a year (listed for 160,000 for a year reduced to 130,000 a few months ago). In speaking to the listing agent he said the developer had made a verbal offer in the past but never followed through on a written offer. I do not understand given they bought and tore down the house across the street for close to the original listing price of this house why they aren't buying this house. Any ideas why the developer is not buying this house or of a way to find out?

1) Regarding the screws.... For the drawer faces: Pocket holes should be drilled into the face frames if they must be attached permanently vs using the hardware to keep them on. The pocket holes should have covers attached (either the plastic or wood options). I personally prefer if they are removable via removal of the hardware so they can be changed out or refaced in the future & since you're going the custom route I'd defiantly want it! Inside the cabinets: A pilot hole should be drilled prior to screw if the wood hardness requires it & the screw counter sunk (slightly below the side walls) with or without plastic caps (depending on the company). Cabinet/Wall Brace:Are all the cabinets secured to the wall with simple screws?? I was really surprised to see this! How are they making sure the bases are secured to studs & not just drilled through into the gypsum board? In the past I've seen cabinet makers use a base board across the run anchored into wall studs and the bases are then secured to the board. Holes: The hole that will be exposed once the dishwasher is installed needs to be fixed. The fridge cabinet with the double screws and the blank hole is ridiculous...whomever was doing the install rushed and didn't care about screw placement or taking the time to properly aline things before drilling. Again= Custom built should = quality control and care! Yes there are MUCH better ways of finding the studs...even just using your knuckles to knock on the wall can get you close enough that a max of 2 holes might need drilled if you miss it the first time....again, sloppy work installing. The range microwave: Did they know that cabinet was going to support a microwave/hood? I'd ask about the install and max weight support. I don't believe 2 screws is enough to hold it (especially if they only screwed it into the wall & not a support board!) but don't know...I'd just hate to have it come crashing down a year from now! *You need to make sure the cabinet makers know that screw placement & finish result is important to you and you expect no screws will be felt or seen once the install is complete. 2) Shims: Yes, it's totally normal for wood shims to be left under the cabinets. Floors aren't completely level and in a new build the house will settle over time and the floor will change so it's important that the cabinets can be leveled. This is why RTA cabinets like IKEA have adjustable feet on the base that's hidden with a toe kick. Custom cabinet makers use wood shims to level on site during install and those can then be removed or added to as time goes on and any changes are required to keep the cabinets level. 3) Fixture & Outlet Holes: Yes, it's common to have large square pre-cut from the backs before install as plumbing is different for every job & since fixtures change depending on the choices made in faucet, garbage disposal, dishwasher lines, etc they can't make exact cuts. Again, this is why a lot of RTA cabinets are backless and if the backing is ordered it must be cut by the installer to fit the existing fixture spaces. HOWEVER- I totally agree with your being upset about the range plug placement and their solution to cut another hole into the side of the custom cabinet boxes. Although- I'm not entirely sure I understand correctly if it had to go through another base to reach the outlet or just the base of that unit vs the back side where a hole was already cut? I don't know what another solution would have been.... 4) Cabinet Face Gaps: Are you doing a full overlay with the new build as well? I completely agree that the gap's should be consistent and you definitely shouldn't be able to see the contents of the drawers! If the cabinets are full overlay why is the frame not hiding the contents? If they are custom inset then I'd be very picky about how it all lines up since this is a fine craft that requires skill & time to get right (hence the excessive cost)...plus wood swells & contracts so they need to fit properly with a slight consistent gap after install.