I have so many spices and herbs and spice mixes in different sizes and shapes - jars, shakers, tins, boxes, baggies - I gave up trying to keep them in a drawer or on the shelf in a loose fashion. Things got lost behind other things and everything looked messy. I bought a bunch of inexpensive shoebox sized clear-ish storage containers. I placed all of my spices and herbs in those and stacked them two high in each shelf above and to the right of my stovetop (the most logical spot for me though I might rethink it) for a total of six containers. They are not organized alphabetically but by frequency of use. The things I use the most often are in the lower two bins on the bottom shelf. The things I use less often (or are extras) are in the shelves above as those require that I get a step stool. (I'm 5 feet tall.) I have small cabinet shelves to hold them so I can take one bin out at a time. I placed one set on the table for better light. Apologies for the crummy cell phone image. I also have other herbs and spices in a pantry shelf in additional containers. Those are things I use the least often or have purchased in bulk. Eileen Here is a link that might be useful: Shoebox sized containers.

I haven't done it yet but I think scanning onto a disc is probably the best. Just think how easy it would be to make copies for other members in your family. I used to worry about saving my photographs in case of an emergency, like a house fire. There are too many to carry. But in the meantime I've taken them out of the albums. Those sticky plastic sheets are harmful to photos and as Susan pointed out they're probably not acid free. I ordered archival photo boxes and labels from 2 sources: Archival Methods and Light Impressions. Both have web sites. I ordered acid free envelopes to put the photos in and wrote the date and subject on the front. Or you can buy polyethylene bags. Archival Methods has a box (12x15x4) that holds 2,400 4x6 prints and Light Impressions has one box (15x6x5) that holds 900 4x6.

Golddust and Groominggal (thanks for the suggestions), I think they do make storage cubes. And putting the wheels on would be easy. The tricky part would be the food-safe liner. And I would like that liner to have a handle for easy lift-out for pouring into bowls, and getting the last drop of old before adding new. Jeannine, you're lucky you have that much free shelf room. The little bags are a lot easier to handle! Allison, thanks for the link. That's probably what I should use in my garage if I'm to keep on getting the big bags, at least. That's a great price! Maybe with the smaller bags I could find a way to have only one location... in my kitchen... but I'm going to have to carry those bags up the stairs. Desertsteph, I love corner cabs, they are so cute! I hope you can work something out. Pupwhipped, those are deffinitely cute for a garage or pantry. I wish they would tell how many lbs. of dog food each size would hold.

Here is the directions for my shelving units, might sound difficult but it is really simple but take time. Here is a not so quick idea of how my paint storage shelves were made. All wood is ¼" wood stock, we used some old paneling & other scraps, but any wood would work. Measurement need to figure the sizes you needed. Back height: mine is 23" wide by 22" high and it holds 135 bottles. To find height: The distance between the bottom of the first shelf and the top of the next shelf is 2 ½" and each shelf is the same ending with the bottom shelf ¼" up from the bottom of the back, 2 ½" times the number of shelves you need plus ¼ equals the back height. Back width: Each bottle fit into a 1" "U" shape with ½" spacer area between where one "U" ends and the next begins. Beginning at one side measure and place a mark at ½" From that mark measure & mark in 1," then ½" then at 1" and continue ending with ½" My row of 15 bottles = 15"+ 8" (16 spacers @1/2" each) equals 23" per shelf. Ex: 20 bottles = 20" + 21 spacers@ ½" each for 10 ½," or 20" + 10 1/2"= 30 ½." Cuts: Back and 2 sides, using your measurements. Shelf bracing: cut strips ¼ x ¼ wide x width of the back. ex. mine is 23" wide so we cut ¼" X 23" cut as many as the number of shelves you are using. Shelves: Cut ¼" X 4" deep X width. Neck holders: ¼" x 1 ½" x desired width. Using the entire length, find and mark the center (3/4) at both ends and several more time if necessary. Draw a line from one end to the other. Using this center line and beginning at either end place a mark at ½," from this mark measure in 1" and mark, continue the ½" then 1" then ½" across the board ending with ½" Find the center of each 1" area, and using a 1" hole saw, cut out a circle. Repeat to the end. When done cut the board down the middle, you now have two scalloped boards. Repeat as needed. DH cheated here and taped two boards together and cut two at a time. He then used one as a template for the rest, cutting two at a time. Glue one straight edge of the neck piece to each shelf edge. We used contact cement, but any good wood glue would work but watch for movement of the pieces. Let dry. Back & bracing pieces piece: measure down from the top of the back and place a line at 2 ½" on both right and left sides. From this mark go down 2 ½," repeat the 2 ½" to the bottom, be sure to leave ¼" at the bottom. This is a good time to check to see if this is the correct size and make any adjustments as needed. Extend these marks to the inside and outside of both side pieces. Glue a shelf brace below all the marks you have made on the back of the unit. Let dry. Assembly: We placed the back piece on a scrap piece of plywood just bigger than the back. Glue and nail the sides to the back. To help keep the shape correct we taped a shelf inside the top and the bottom side pieces. Once the sides were in place we placed a long strip of wood along the outside of the side and secured them to the plywood, thus keeping the side tight to the back. Let dry. Starting at the bottom, add glue to the back and sides of each shelf and place them inside the frame and on top of the braces. Then add finishing nails along the line on the outside of each side piece. Repeat until you finish at the top of the unit. Again let dry. We then attached the unit to the wall and were luck enough to have two studs right where we need them, but you might have to use molly screw if you cant find stud. We used 9 screws in all. The unit is very solid and survived all of the abuse it received during the flood, being shoved from here to there before again claiming space in my craft/panty. If you have any questions I hopefully, can answer them. Belle