This decison was the biggest issue before we started to remodel and really held us back from starting sooner (we are now in the middle of it). We wanted to gut the bathroom ourselves but heard how hard it was to get the cast iron tub out. Ours was pink. We had bathfitters come, and the quote was over $3,000 for a custom tub and wall surround. Then we got a quote for reglazing -- $300. He said he would only do it in our downstairs bathroom where we have a window, but will not do upstairs becuase he won't use the chemicals where there is no window -- too dangerous to his health. So we were kind of bummed because getting the tub out from upstairs will be a bear. We were pretty set on reglazing because the downstairs is a guest bathroom and the bath/shower isn't used that much -- unless we move downstairs when we are old :) Then our plumber came to give us an estimate for the rough plumbing -- he suggested not reglazing because it doesn't last, and said here's a hint, take a sledgehammer to the tub -- which we did and it came out in 6 pieces in 1 hour -- and the town took it from the curb. He also begged us not to get our faucets from the big stores so he wouldn't have to rip our walls out in a few years. So now we have a new Kohler white cast iron tub downstairs and are not afraid to face the upstairs bath remodel. We will most likely get Americast upstairs because it is lighter. Just wanted to let you know what we found out about reglazing and an easier way to get the old tub out.

Lexi, you can pull from both ends of a skein, but you will have to watch for tangles. Unless you are able to stand the skein on end and pull up, it will tangle/twist badly and you will just have to stop every once in a while and untwist it. Another option is to wind the skein into two balls. A small kitchen or postal scale will make it very easy. Even though the band states that the skein is a pound, weigh it anyway (you'd be surprised how many times I've found that the skein is a little light), then just start winding (pulling from the center) and weigh the ball occasionally until you have a ball that is half that weight. That is a pretty accurate way to go.

Robin, you have been given some great advice, especially checking your gauge, which none of us like to do! If a pattern calls for casting on more stitches, but has a pattern to it, especially a cable, try it anyway. Cables take up stitches, or pulls the stitches tighter, similar to ribbing, so it takes more stitches to fit the same. Also, measure your foot from the back of your heel to the tip of your toe. Subtract 2 inches. That is how long you need to knit the foot before you start your decreases for the toes. The decreases will take up about 2 inches. That is how you get the socks to fit your feet in length, no matter what the pattern says. As long as you get it to fit around with the right number cast on, you can make the foot as long or as short as you need to. I use Ann Norling's Basic Adult Sock pattern. It has multiple cast ons for different weights of yarn. I cast on 72 for my fluffy legs and decrease to 68 at the ankle so the foot fits right. For my DH, I cast on 72 and do that to the end with only decreases at the toe. All on size 2 needles. Cables are not hard as long as you mark your rows and pay attention. And the needle thingy you need is called cable needle! I have used a double point needle and a size 1 crochet hook in a pinch! Hmmmm, a tooth pick, too, once! Tami

Since I knit almost exclusively with yarns that felt, I use this join a lot. It doesn't seem very sturdy to begin with, when it's still wet, but it's strong. Even if you don't get the join fulled all the way, it still works. Using your saliva works better than water, because the enzymes help the yarn full quicker. However, non-knitters look at you VERY strangely when you stick your yarn in your mouth and then rub it together quickly. It's also kind of icky to knit with wet yarn, though, and I have a tendency to let the join dry before knitting over it. ~ Kit