I worked in the auto-body and paint trade since 1953. Learned a lot about the equipment what to use, how big, what CFM. I learned that most any compressor will put out 100 lbs, more or less. I learned that for a job of painting anything with a spray gun requires a continuous level of air pressure, while using the spray gun. The air compressor has to put out enough CFM to keep the air line to the spray gun at the pressure that gun needs to atomize the liquid while spraying That said: Yes-you can buy an inexpensive, say 75-125 dollar compressor that advertises it will put out 125 lbs air pressure, but, if the CFM is low, it'll only be good for airing tires, or blowing dust off something. You'll do a lot of waiting for it to catch up on the air pressure, if you are painting anything large. I haven't read what "The air tool guy" Has to say. I'd be willing to bet that his comments may be like mine. I had to leave the trade after they started using isocyanates in the paints. I'd go into wheezing and coughing fits, to where I'd have to stop in the middle of a paint job, and go outside for fresh air. Ya see, the paint companies didn't tell us at first, of the dangers of the new paints that had the isocyanates in them, and that stuff would go right thru the old mask filters. Independents, like the ones I worked for, didn't want to buy the expensive filters, etc. that was required, and it was five years later that we got info on the iso's , and how bad they were for our lungs! TMHO: Rusty Jones( I got so bad-if I stopped at the local gas station, and the paint shop across the street was spraying, I'd have to get my gas someplace else!

I have used penetrating oil finishes on floors. Waterlox and VelvetOil are two of the easiest to find ones. Pay VERY careful attention to the surface prep and application methods ... the first coat is critical for deep penetration. I'll be using Waterlox in a hallway next year, which should test it's durability to the maximum.

We would need to know the brand and type of finish, Oil can be either linseed oil, hard wax oil or oil polyurethane. I would guess hard wax but from your description it may be linseed.

My favorite "oil" finish is called Liberon finishing oil, and is actually a blend of oil and varnish. I order it from Wood Finish Supply in Mendocino, California. I only know about the place because I went to furniture making school near there. They also used to carry Watco Danish Oil, which was a very popular finish for a very long time, but I'm not sure that it's available anymore. The paper catalog I have is a bit outdated, but it also shows a product called Danish Tung Oil penetrating finish that might work for you. Just to be clear, you can't wipe these finishes over an existing finish. You'll be scraping and sanding off the old stuff, whatever it is, and it will be a bit of a project. As I said earlier, oil finishes aren't all that tough. They persist in looking good because they're easy to fix and because, since they tend not to be glossy, small abrasions don't stand out. Forgive me if I'm overstating how careful you'll have to be with your table; the ubiquity of plastics these days seems to give some people unrealistic expectations of the durability of wood finishes. I'd hate for you to do a lot of work and be disappointed. Here is a link that might be useful: Wood Finish Supply