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Remove subflooring without disturbing cabinets?

13 years ago

Is there anyone here with experience/advice on the ability to remove subflooring without disturbing the cabinets that are resting on it? Our kitchen floor appears to have the original hardwood flooring beneath the subflooring that currently hosts linoleum. We are at a point where we either want to put down new linoleum or restore the original hardwood floors. The kitchen cabinets are only 8 years old, so replacing them just to restore the hardwood is not an option. Do any of you know if this is even an option? Or should we just go with new linoleum, or something over the subfloor? There would also, I realize, be a 1/2 inch difference between where the subfloor has been taken up and the bottom of the cabintes that would have to somehow be delt with (trim maybe?) if the subflooring were pulled up. Thanks for any input!

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Comments (5)

glennsfc
13 years ago
The 1/2' subflooring you mention we actually call underlayment. Yes, it can be removed cleanly with the right tool. You want a flush cut saw. These are made by Crain and another manufacturer.
fanner
Original Author
13 years ago
Thank-you! I wasn't sure if this was a completely taboo thing to try to do or not. Would it be safe to assume that a flooring installation specialist would be able to do this, or would it require a construction contractor (do I sound clueless enough yet..!)?
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A lot will depend on which way the joists run in the room and exactly what the source of the squeaks and humps are due to. You might be able to get by with using a flush cut saw, but if the cabinets are resting on the subfloor on a joist that will need to be sistered or otherwise beefed up and not sitting the right way, they will have to come out. Yes, you will need to replace the entire subfloor, and that will need to be done from above. I think it's time you cut a hole in the floor and did some exploring as to your joist's unsupported length, depth, and height. Cut a hole where the hump is, and see what you see. A lot of times, that's where a cross beam supports long span joists in the center and they aren't really robust enough so that lets them sag on both sides. That's where sistering the joists may come in. You can't tell until the floor and subfloor is gone.
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glennsfc
13 years ago
You need a flooring installation specialist. Someone who has invested in the tool (about $300) will know how to use the thing. I've done this many times with no damage whatsoever to cabinets and other vertical surfaces.

Once the plywood is out, you can then examine the wood flooring to see if it can be successfully restored. Most times I find it can be...you need a good refinisher to cover all the bases, including filling any nail holes with a colored filler that will blend with the wood.

Where do you hail from, may I ask?
fanner
Original Author
13 years ago
Any thoughts on cost of doing all this vs having tile or engineered hardwood installed? If I am going to "sell" this to the hubby, it has to be a fair comparison financially. We are in mid-western Wisconsin.
glennsfc
13 years ago
This probably would cost less than tile or some engineered hardwood, simply for the fact that your material costs will be much less. Both options would require floor preparation anyway; a thin engineered hardwood would require the least in preparation.

If you go with tile or hardwood, make sure that the added height will be acceptable and won't trap appliances and create other problems. If you go with restoring the hardwood, only use a quality, two-part waterborne polyurethane.

I'm in NYC.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

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