tommy23, there are 3 terminals on those Taco zone valves. 24 volts on terms. 1 and 2 will drive the valve open so removing #1 wire should allow the valve to close. Terminal 3 is an end switch in the valve. The end switch closes when the valve opens and this is what sends power to the circulator relay to bring on the pump. There is a small lever in the power head of the valve just to the left of the terminals. This lever should be up all the time, if its down the valve is open manually. Also with no call for heat if you try to push down the lever manually you should feel some considerable resistance but when you make the t-stat call for heat the lever should go down with no resistance at all. It may take a minute after a call for heat to energize the valve to check it. 99 times out of 100 if there is a problem with the valve its the powerhead and not the valve itself so the answer is no you don't have to drain the system. If you can determine that your problem is the powerhead these are easily removed by pushing down slightly on the head then twisting it off. Shut off power before you change the powerhead. Hope that helped

Mr HAVC , thanks for that info ,I will save it for my info folder .But the Zone valves that you are talking about are actually not Taco as I thought ,the pump is a Taco but the zone valves are Honeywell. The zone vales have 2 yellow and two red wires ,they seem to come from the power source of the transformer and the thermostats. I guess its all the same. But can I take the motor out of the valve and just replace it . How would you do this without letting water leak? thanks,sorry for the confusion.

In that case can you get the numbers off of the valve ? I'll have to check the Honeywell book, they have several different types.

Mr.Havac, you have been a "new man" lately.
My Taco zone valves were installed 30 years ago and I never used the boiler for heat and the heads were never "excercised". Now that I've installed a wood-fired boiler in the system, I wanted to use the baseboard and all 3 of the zone valves smoked and broke when I went to use them. How's that for luck?

"Mr.Havac, you have been a "new man" lately."
Is that good or bad baymee? How long have they, (valves) been in sitting idle. Hey, if I sat still for a few seasons I wouldn't expect to move either! You probably know this just as much as I do but the kicker is a replacement head isn't all that much cheaper then an entire valve. Go figure! So I guess this means that during the upcoming week you are going to have to shoot down some perfectly good Taco powerheads in some poor unsuspecting customers house just so you don't have to buy them yourself. Baymee,,, you have learned your lessons well my son. Nah, baymee doesn't strike me as someone who would do that. Hmmmmmm

No, I like to sleep at night.

I think my cost for a new valve was $45 and the head was $30, so I replaced the 3 heads with Sparco heads. Works like a charm.

Only kidding ya baymee, you don't strike me as someone who would do something like that. Neither would I but you know there are people out there that do that kind of stuff. I've run into some once in a while. So a Sparco head fits on a Taco valve huh? Interesting, thats good to know, less money?
Your story about not using those valves that long reminds me of a cheap Yankee logger that used to live about a mile down the road from me. He was strictly a wood burner running 3 wood stoves constantly all winter even though he had a nice efficient HB Smith with about 5 zones he never used. He used to brag how the oil in his tank was only about 50 cents a gallon, thats how long since he used the boiler. Well lo and behold one day he got lazy and turned on that little switch with the red cover thats mounted at the top of the stairs. Boy it was the biggest news around here for months. Flying squirels had built a nest over the top of the chimney and plugged it, they figure the possum that went to sleep on top of the flue collector box got in there through the barometric, but its a known fact around here now that until possums reach about medium rare they screem loud as all hell and the #2 taint the delicate flavor of the usually tender and very flavorful possum belly! They had to suck out about a third of that oil tank because that 50 cent oil turned into 50 cent semi combustable sludge and water. The line had to be replaced as it couldn't even be cleared and the pump and other innards all had to be replaced. On top of one hell of a bill for his frugality he had to suffer the humiliation of quite a bit of unmerciful Yankee harrasment. LOL

I actually use the oil burner for my domestic hot water, about 220 gallons of oil a year. Still cheaper than heating with an electric hot water heater. I thought about getting one when oil was 2.59 but PPL said it would be more to heat water with electric. Now with the wood boiler installed, all components of my boiler are being used.

An addendum: Next year when PPL removes the caps from it's current price, (including taxes), of about 9¢ per kwh, and the price increases 50%, oil heat will again be a bargain.

A friend of mine said his total electric bill, with heat pumps, is $400 per month. Since much of the new construction is with gas and electric heat, both expensive to begin with, imagine a $600 electric bill per month.

What the hell, I post and then they start new topic ,oh well!!

You can turn the heads counter clockwise and remove them. No need to unsolder anything, just replace with a new Honeywell head or maybe even a Taco or Sparco head will fit.

Press down hard and turn CCW.

Thanks Bayme , It sounds so simple ,I push in and turn CCW,I guess I have to loosen some screws first , and I won't expose any water from the zone?

"What the hell, I post and then they start new topic ,oh well!!"
Tommy23, I was waiting for you to get back to me about what particular Honeywell valve you had so in the mean time baymee and I started talking to keep the thread alive. Without the info I asked I can't help you except for a guess and I really don't like just guessing. Like I mentioned earlier, Honeywell makes several different valves.

On a Taco or Sparco zone valve, you just push down and turn and the whole head will release. All you will see is a button that the head depresses to open the valve. There will be no leaks.

It's built like a string trimmer head. Press and turn and it pops off.

Bayme,I am not sure if this is the number ,this # was found on the cover to the zone v/v REV.A 40004850-001 ,Also I think that there are screws that have to be remove before I twist CCW,is that correct ? Thanks

You should go to the Honeywell site and get a pdf about this head. I am not familiar with it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Changing the Head

There are all the instructions for how to replace one. I'm glad I have Taco.

bayme ....thanks for all your help ,I will ck that site .Thanks Again