You can float over anything really. Biggest issue is addressing any humps or depressions on the current floor. You wood floor now is essentially a sub floor. Wide plank pine? Is your house about 100yrs old? Check with the mill of the product whether or not that particular product can be nailed? Most can but there are some that dont recommend it. It should say either on the box, inside on the warranty booklet or online.

I can tell you that a waterfall resting directly on a floating LVP floor will definitely cause issues. After a full year we have major flooring issues with buckling around the waterfall area. That’s what you get for hiring a cheap contractor that doesn’t think these things through. I am now renovating another property and thinking this through ahead of time and found this thread on what to do. It sounds like the stainless steel button should do the trick and be totally hidden. This should allow the floating floor to slide underneath the waterfall edge and allow for an expansion gap while keeping everything hidden without the use of caulking.

Exactly, a bunch of expensive labor prep work with SLC has to be done first. As was previously said. Which the OP does not want to do. And they do not want to spend money on anything but the cheapest possible flooring and the cheapest possible way to install it. Which is a guaranteed failure. I am not going to argue any of these points further because 1. They are false, and 2. You and I apparently don't jive on how we outline our thoughts in text, because had you read any of my previous comments in the manner that I intended them, you might know that they are false. Flooring on top of flooring is still a hack install. It’s like shingles over shingles. Or vinyl siding over clapboards. There’s always someone who will do it. But that’s not the person you should hire. I believe there is a time and place for these type of installs. If you have never been in a situation where your roof has sprung a leak and you are not in a position to pay for a whole new roof, then great for you. But I know several people who have, and their only option was to patch the problem area with shingles over shingles and let that suffice until they could afford the new roof. This is akin to my situation. I have to do something about the tile. I will be doing a "hack job" on my tile regardless, because I know we can not go the proper route right now. Naturally, I would rather keep a single height of flooring in this area, so I posed the question about whether I could carry the flooring over the wood as well. I will repeat again that I don't think it's unreasonable or foolish or wasteful to want to spend a few extra hundred bucks and an extra day of personal labor to have one flooring type on our ground floor if we're going to be covering the tile anyway. This is all rendered quite moot, either way, because we have found that we can attempt the tile repairs ourselves. We had been told that tile repair/restoration was very expensive. We don't particularly care for the tile, so we decided we'd rather not spend money restoring it. We recently found products to fix the problem areas ourselves that may actually somewhat match. So at this point, we are just going to try that. Then if THAT fails, back to this floating floor dilemma.

Please don't. The warranty will specifically state that the subfloor must be clean flat and smooth. The warranty/installation instructions will clearly state that if you are going over top of an 'old floor' it must be (clean, flat and smooth) well ADHERED to the subfloor. A floating floor is just that...floating. It is not adhered to anything. It should take 30 minutes to remove the old vinyl floor. You will also want to pop off the trim on the walls (probably quarter round or shoe mold) before you install the new floor. Once the old floor is gone and the new floor is installed, you will then reinstall the trim. And don't forget that the new vinyl will TELEGRAPH anything sitting underneath (like bevels from the old floor underneath) as well it will raise the floor height which means you will have to have a NEW transition strip created for the doorway. If you simply rip out the old floor, you will likely be able to reuse the old transition strip currently sitting in the doorway.