Temperature is often more important than humidity with Flytraps. Make sure the temperature is not over 100 degrees outside. Humidity levels of down to about 30 percent are tolerable for Flytraps, but they do prefer around 50 percent or higher. They can adapt to lower humidity just fine though. If your ambient humidity there is under 30 percent then use larger pots of around 5-6 inches and a large plastic container like petiolaris uses. The kind that are a foot or two wide and 6-9 inches deep. That would provide a higher level of ambient humidity around the plants while giving them air. Just keep an inch of water in that all the time.

Well, some basics from my understanding and experience... not a professional. One purpose of a trap is to prevent normal gas from the sewer from wafting up into the house; if there is nothing blocking the gas, it will... the trap should be filled with water, thus fulfilling the job. If a drain is not used, it will dry up eventually and thus allow gas to flow freely- smells bad, not safe or healthy. We had (I don't know all the technical words) a house trap that was at the point of exit from the house that allowed access to the drain line, and the cap popped off (was not set back correctly by a plumber) and a terrible odor was wafting (I like that work) throughout the house, was difficult to locate where it was coming from. I had the whole fire dept (told them it smelled like gas;-) there investigating... lots of cute rescue-type men in cute fire gear ;->... they determined it was sewer gas and firmly tapped the cap back on, and voila, smell gone. bodica has a good point, although I would think there would be some moisture leaking as well as gas if the seal is not intact. Again, the wax seal is after the toilet trap, thus gas could flow freely. Check all drains in that room- any sinks, shower/tubs, etc for either "dry" or break in the line. As far as the septic is concerned (had to learn all about them when we bought our current home with a failed septic), it should not be an issue if this is occurring in only one area- a failed septic will show itself either in the clogged leach field, backing up, slow drains, etc. The type of system you describe- pump-up- just means that the tank is likely on higher ground than the drain, and needs to be actively pumped into the tank. If that were not functioning, the problem would be similar to a failing system, with back-up on the lower floors first. Not likely what she seems to be experiencing. If the smell is detectable in ANY other part of the house, perhaps it is just collecting in that bathroom? Could it be coming up through the walls? Is the drain line located below that bathroom? that it may just be drifting to that high space? Hope this gives you some things to investigate. Try posting on the plumbing forum, they have been most helpful.

Premature posting. I wanted to add more to the above post before I submitted it. The "U" part of the trap is what holds water. If you look down the drain you might be able to see a portion of the pool of water that is held in the trap. The odor could also be hair and oil conglomeration that has been brewing in the waste pipe for a while. Hair from your head, oils from shampoos, conditioners, and soaps. I've snaked some waste pipes and had slugs of "stuff" several feet long come sliding out of the waste pipe. Ugh. On occasion I have seen vent pipes on the roof plugged up. Anything from bird nests to frost build up during cold weather. If the house is on a slab, an area about 18" square around the proposed drain location is normally boxed out. No concrete is poured in the boxed out area when the slab is poured. The drain pipe is piped into that box. Later the plumber can come in and set the trap in the boxed out area, then fill the boxed area as the shower pan is built. So...it could be a dry trap caused from lack of use/evaporation. That's the most common in a seldom used bath. It could be a blocked vent pipe. If your vent pipe is blocked, sometimes water sent down a drain in one part of the house can cause that same trap or a trap in another part of the house to siphon dry. An indication of that problem might show itself when you flush a toilet upstairs and see the water in a downstairs toilet bowl shimmer or bubble. Upstairs laundry can cause that as well. Siphoning can also be from the horizontal pipe extending off your shower's drain being too far from the vertical pipe that vents the shower. It could be a hair ball that's been smoldering on the pipes for a while. Do you get a good pull from your exhaust fan? When it's running, is there enough suction to hold a paper towel or a section of toilet paper up against the grill? Mongo

It seems I might have to install one based on the information I found below. Notice in 2000 Edition, it specifically mention the "Deep Seal" Or "Trap Seal Primer". In 2006 Edition, the "Deep Seal" is removed, and it has "Trap Seal Primer" or "Other Approved Method". My 6 inch Deep P Trap has the AC condensation line and Water heater pressure relief line there, there could be water evaporating during the winter when AC is not running. ---------------------------------------------------------- Georgia 2000 Edition 1002.4 Trap seals. Where a trap seal is subject to loss by evaporation, a deep-seal trap consisting of a 4-inch (102 mm) seal or a trap seal primer valve shall be installed. Trap seal primer valves shall be installed on all traps serving floor drains located in public toilet rooms. A trap seal primer valve shall conform to ASSE 1018 or ASSE 1044. (Effective January 1, 2001) ---------------------------------------------------------- Georgia 2006 Edition 1002.4 Trap seals. Where a trap seal is subject to loss by evaporation, the trap seal shall be protected by a trap seal primer or other approved method. A trap seal primer valve shall conform to ASSE 1018 or ASSE 1044. (Effective January 1, 2007) ---------------------------------------------------------- Here's an image of my p-trap http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/ac309/Happybear/?action=view&current=Drain2.jpg