Can someone explain the process of removing paint from flooring which was completely painted. Should I just go at it with sanders, or would a chemical stripper work best?

My floors are done and they look great altough I can see some sanding marks. The final grit was 80...is this usual? It seemed to leave a few deep sanding marks here and there. On the whole, it looks great though... I think maybe it just needs a bit of buffing... we used Waterlox Original medium sheen. I know that will show a bit more sanding marks at first but as it softens (as it will), some of that will go away.

Shellac's solvent is denatured alcohol (or, um, real alcohol if that's handier.) If that doesn't work try mineral spirits or turp - it might just be old-fashioned varnish. Or you can have both, in serial layers. Oh, the joys of old houses! Either way, you'll know pretty quickly because the paper towel you rub the solvent on with will get sticky when you have a match between the product and the solvent. Do the tests in an out-of-the-way spot, naturally. It would be fab if it's shellac as it's much easier to lift than paint. The issue with paint is that it gets deep in the grain and between the boards and trying to sand down below it for total removal can result in sanding too deep. Believe it or not some of us actually still use shellac on floors. It has many adavantages: it's natural (it's made from insect secretions, which may or may not cheer you up!); it's almost completely reversible (as you will find if that's shellac on your floors, you'll bless who ever put it down); and it's touch-up-able as new coats actually dissolve the coat below. It is uncommon now and many (trades)people never having worked with it consider it too tricky to apply so there is much recommendation against it. It is not as durable as poly, though, and it is particularly vulnerable to water. (Though you can wax it - with well-buffed paste wax - to increase its resistance to water. It's very old-fashioned. I don't think it's as fouly stinky as poly. I like the softer, less plastic-y look to it, especially when waxed. It probably takes longer to apply (more coats) than slapping on some poly, which may be partly why it fell out of favor. Casey usually chimes with good advice about buying it dry and recommends not buying it at big box stores because their stuff is not fresh. One buys the shellac flakes in various tints and mixes with alcohol in situ. I think it is harder to apply when it is very hot and humid. At least I have more problems with uneven drying which can lead to a cloudiness. (Not fatal, but requiring another coat.) Try Googling about this. If you get beyond the anti-shellac propaganda, you'll find info and Youtubes of people who have done it. HTH L.

Understand the depleted funds! How about refinishing or painting the bedroom furniture? We have pine floors in our 150 year old house and most of them have been painted. I've slowly been refinishing them myself, but once they are stripped, I just clear coat them with non yellowing polyurethane. I don't try to stain them... heck I don't even try to make them perfect when stripping them. They are full of "character" ;) But they do get a bit orangey and I'm careful to choose wall colours and furniture with that in mind. (Really like a lilac purple on the walls with the floors, but that may not be for everyone! ;) )