The old pine floors in my 1936 homes need attention. I have about six boards ( about 50 lf.)that need replacing due to termite damage (2.5" face). Once replaced, the entire floor will be sanded and resealed. My house is on piers, located in Florida and near the water (ie. humid!). The subfloor I believe is in good shape - the drywood termites flew under the house, bypassed the heart pine subfloor and went to town on the softer pine floors. In hiring a refinisher, what do I look for? I want to be sure that the old flooring is handled properly and the patching is done correctly. Should they deliver the replacement wood several weeks prior to installation for the wood to become conditioned to my indoor temps? Is it correct to assume that the replacement boards will be face nailed rather than nailed on the tongue? As I want the replacement boards to match as much as possible to the old floor, is it reasonable to inspect these replacement boards prior to the installation to ensure they are satisfactory (ie. knots, nail holes, grain pattern etc.)? I understand that the boards will come from either salvaged flooring or milled reclaimed wood. Pros/cons to these sources? What are your opinions regarding sealers - water or oil based? Brands? How many coats? Any assistance is greatly appreciated!

Hi, Below you can see my setup. I gave up the other lamps, I figured I'll take the tested(somehwat) route amd go with them T8 lamps, so the two lights you see(there's two lamps there) are....F36w 865 t8 by Sylvania LuxLine plus, new generation. The distance from the plants is on average 30cm. Plants heights is 55cm from the ground. The setup is incomplete, as I plan to have the shelves in a letter C formation, so I can have like 2 or 4 of these lamps lighting them all. Also, how important are, the back thingies which reflect light back? I attach pictures of their current state and how it all looks. Also I have some flowers out. I would appreciate info and advice.

Keep existing structure, complete gut the space, new footer(s) inside existing structure, load bearing structure above those, floor joists above that, subfloor and refinishing. Have engineered plans/permits before starting. Basically an insulated and interior crawlspace below the new floor when done. Have access to down there, you could use it for storage also. Not impossible. Plenty of work but not impossible. Sounds like it would need a big reno anyhow from description. Just more work than a standard DIY gut and redo due to structure work involved. This is something a GC and crew normally does. This does give you a chance to make it how you want it. Hopefully selling price reflects the need for a large reno. what unexpected or nasty surprises did you encounter? I have found a lot of things in my current house where I ask myself, what were they thinking? So you will probably find a fair amount of stupid behind the walls. When I redid the drain system, there was an old 1-1/2" drain line from the kitchen that had so much gunk built up there was maybe 1/2" left for actual draining. Also the electrical was mix of grounded and ungrounded wire, and tons of junction boxes in the basement, I redid all that mess. Found a lot of the wire nuts where the wires were loose or arcing was happening and it welded the wires and nuts together, at least they used junction boxes or the house probably would have burned down... In laundry area, an ungrounded range receptacle was used instead of a grounded dryer receptacle even though the wire they used did have a ground. At the panel the fuse was rated at 30A so it was safe, just annoying I had to get a different cord to plug it in when I moved in. I eventually changed out the outlet for future owners... Oh yea that old fuse box the main fuse connection started arcing! Talk about fire hazard! So that was replaced with a breaker panel. Also in the laundry room the washer standpipe was a 2 inch that went into that same 1-1/2" from the kitchen with a vent tee instead of a sanitary tee... (so much fail). It now has its own vent and drain to the soil stack. Higher radon level than wanted, had to add active mitigation. Kinked gas line multiple places... Bath vent in attic went to above a soffit grate so 'some' moisture went outside but some got in attic. Not enough attic ventilation. Lots of other stuff, but cant remember it all lol.

Shouldn't be that hard to balance those two styles... Get a sizeable rug or a runner. https://www.houzz.com/products/loloi-torrance-grey-navy-hallway-runner-27x8-area-rug-prvw-vr~86661739 https://www.houzz.com/products/artist-studio-global-medium-gray-navy-area-rug-26x8-prvw-vr~104933060 https://www.houzz.com/products/nuloom-reiko-area-runner-rug-blue-26x8-prvw-vr~55875473 https://www.houzz.com/products/surya-mamba-mba-9019-26x8-light-gray-flint-gray-rug-prvw-vr~14535212 This was a five minute search. Dig around and find something you like!