What size piping did he use? I would assume it is too small, too long or too many bends, creating a dramatic pressure loss. If the installer checked the pressure at the meter, I would assume he checked (His work) the pressure after the pressure regulator at the appliance your having problems with.

Dan Martyn

A gas pressure check at all appliances needs to be done, while all are running...your furnace could be under-firing while cooking. Without seeing the setup, I'd venture to guess they took a close hookup for a tee, instead of looking at the charts that every professional should use.

your gas system possible was installed by design and when thay tapped into the gas line and ran it to the stove the main line coming in became to small. the gas piping should be designed by a licened plumber. the gas pressure comming in is correct but it is 7 ounces not pounds.

Thanks all, I had another person out today for a refrigerator issue and I asked him if he had any input (he is a Sears repair guy who has had previous professional experience installing gas piping). After taking a look at the situation he said something very similar to what Ron1104 wrote.

Dan Martyn, what you wrote was not actually performed because the guy who put in the gas line was not actually present after the gas was turned back on (the system was red tagged/shutdown due to a leak, and he fixed something and then the Gas Company came later in the day and turned the gas back on).

Tinmantu, Yes, the new line is hooked up very close to the tee that goes over to the furnace (if not actually part of it).

I'll be using this information when I get someone back out here and hopefully will post a resolution. Thanks!

"the gas pressure comming in is correct but it is 7 ounces not pounds."
Correction again, it's 7 inches water column not 7 ounces. Thats for natural gas anyway, 11 inches WC for LP. Somebody has to figure out the BTU total for everything. Then do a line sizing calculation.
"There were numerous problems running the new line that I don't want to get into here"
Apparently some of the problems have not been squared away.

Try this link. You can do the calculations yourself and see how far off your "professional" was......

Here is a link that might be useful: gas piping table

based on the information you've given there is only one logical explanation and it has been pointed out here already. The system was not checked to see if it would accommodate a new gas appliance, meaning the lines you have cannot carry enough gas to fire all appliances at once or even two at the time for that fact. This is a very common problem,I see it everyday almost, and this topic does not get the attention it deserves by fuel piping installers much of the time.

The system needs to be checked for proper sizing and corrections made as needed to resolve it, either by up- sizing the piping where needed or changing the system to a medium pressure system.

This is why we always size our systems too large, so they can be easily expanded if needed down the road.

Time for a follow up post. The original gas professional came out yesterday and evaluated the situation. He insists that the sizing of pipes is not an issue. Furthermore, he did a test that may point to the source of the problem.

He put the manometer on the gas meter, then he had me turn on the furnace (at this point only the furnace and hot water heater would be on). Almost immediately the pressure at the manometer dropped to close to zero. I went upstairs and checked for flame at the furnace and there was none. I went back downstairs and checked for flame on the stove - it was there but hugely reduced in volume.

Based on this, he says that the problem lies in the meter. This is potentially good news for me, since the Gas Company is responsible for the meter. I will have the Gas Company back out hopefully next week. Will post a follow up then.

Resolution to this problem: turns out there was debris in the gas line that went out to the street. The gas company dug the line up and blew it out.