Hello, I am hoping someone can help me connect our tv to our cable dvr, a dvd player, and a vcr via an rf modulator and a switchbox. I have spent three days trying to figure it all out. The tv is an RCA model F25216WT it only has a coaxil connector in the back that is why I have the rf modulator. The cable dvr is from Time/Warner cable and is a Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300. The DVD player is a CyberHome CH-DVD 300. The VCR is a Mitsubishi HS-U500. The RF modulator is a TERK. The switchbox does not have any labeling on it to identify it. It has three input a/v connections in the back for three different devices. It also has an output a/v connection, two coaxil connections-one for in antenna and one out to tv. There is also an in a/v connections on the front. After being without the tv and cable for three days my husband is getting antzy. We babysit our grandchildren and they are getting bored playing games with poppa. I have managed to get the tv/cable to work but that is it. The cable company won't come out because it isn't their responsibility to hook everything else up. Can anyone help with this please?

Orie, I also suffer from severe sinus issues. I have several polyps that cause horrible pain and pressure. Surgery has been advised, but I have been told the polyps will most likely return, as well as the other sinus issues, so I don't want to attempt it. It sounds like part of your husband's problem are dry and irritated nasal/sinus tissue. I use a Netti Pot which can be purchased at any drug store. It looks like a little tea pot, a mix of water and salt, then flush each nostril. It keeps the nasal passages moist and reduces/eliminates inflammation and irritation. No side effects from drugs and most people use it as part of their morning routine along with brushing teeth, etc.. I use saline sprays throughout the day as well and since using both have noticed a dramatic improvement, escpecially during the winter. Perhaps he can mention the Netti pot to his doctor and see what he thinks.

SW Jersey Cream and Compatible Cream might be too yellow if you want something soft. Those shades are very good for brightening and warming up a room that doesn't get much natural light. But for a large area with natural light, I think they would go too yellow. SW Wheat Grass is also a fairly intense shade that you might not want in a large space, although it doesn't look like that on the strip. Looks great in a kitchen that is fairly confined to itself. SW Sea Salt or Comfort Gray (if you wanted to go a little darker) are very pretty and versatile shades for large areas. Rainwashed/Quietude is beautiful, but I like that best in a bedroom or bath. Although I have seen some kitchens with white cabs and Quietude that have been stunning. In your case, with those lovely blue tiles, I would let them be the star and go neutral in the kitchen with the wall color (creamy yellow/beige). Take a look at SW Ivoire and Biltmore Buff. They are more subdued yellows and make nice backdrops for open spaces. SW Believable Buff/Whole Wheat go more toward beige, but in light the yellow is more apparent. I don't have Whole Wheat, but I do have Believeable Buff and it appears much more yellow once on the walls than it does on the paint strip. They are among SW's top selling colors. Yellows are tricky. I've found that for my tastes, if I want a yellow/cream in a well lit space, one which tends toward green (not too much) looks better, but if it's in a smaller space or one that gets little natural light (basement or north facing, e.g.), a yellow that tends toward gold looks better. Since you have such large spaces to paint, I definitely echo the sentiment to do some sampling - even painting a whole wall (roughly) and observing how it blends with your other colors and plays in light would help a lot.

Thanks. I have a follow-up question, too, because it seems I'll run out of space in that box. The box is going to have to switches to control lights, one 3-way and one single pole. So it'll have - 1 14/2 coming in (line power) - 1 14/2 going out to light 1 - 1 14/2 going out to light 2 (3-way switched) - 1 14/3 going in (3-way switch) - 1 14/2 going out to power a receptacle plus, because of the splice mentioned above - 2 14/3 going in/out If I got this right, that adds up to - 4 allowances for 2 switches - 1 allowance for ground - 17 allowances for conductors which is 22 -> 44 inches required, plus possibly another 2 for the clamps (do the internal clamps in those blue plastic boxes count?) I can't look at the box which is currently there right now, it's a typical blue Carlton plastic 2-gang, but I'm quite sure it doesn't have enough volume. Are there any boxes available that would suit my situation (the wall is 2x6, so there should be enough room), or do I have to go about relocating the 14/3-14/3 splice into its own box? Also, I guess I could save one 14/2 going out for the lights by making this side of the 3-way hook up to line and running the lights from the other end...