Our bud who has worked in the concrete business for decades says there are only 2 kinds of concrete...that with cracks and that which hasn't cracked yet. It is part of the natural curing process. Hairline cracks are not an issue. What is an issue is wide cracks and esp if the sides of the cracks are of different heights demonstrating shifting underneath.

Hydro Ban is a great material for waterproofing shower walls and floors. For VERY minimal cracks, it might be OK...the operative word here is "might." For larger cracks, I have my doubts. I think a membrane would be preferable and Laticrete makes them, as I recall. Schluter also has "Ditra" which is an isolation membrane and would do the job. I would suggest that you go over to Laticrete.com and peruse the data sheets on HydroBan and also look at their crack isolation membranes. At least that way, if your installer is so gung ho on Laticrete, you can at least query him on the proper crack supression membranes. You might also go to Schluter.com and investigate "Ditra."

I am not sure when the entire townhouse concrete floor, extending to the deck, started cracking until now, after the tenant moved out. It does not concern me, for expansion and contraction are the norm, and we see cracked concrete everywhere. However, I am selling the townhouse. Although it's not a concern to me, it is an eye sore to the buyer. I am debating whether I should patch the cracks up. If I use the polymer concrete patch, it may do its job yet be ugly and accentuate the crack, due to the blue-grey solid color of the patch. Not patching with the polymer patch may be better off. Mortar seems to be on the darker gray, still in cool tone (to me, regular concrete always has a warmer tone like wheat or cream). What's your take on whether patching it or not? And if yes, what material would you suggest? Thanks

The issue I'm seeing has to do with: 1. Thickness - it is a thin slab 2. Water damage AND high wear in a single area (from the photos shown) Technically it is *possible to jack out some of the concrete in the front (the wear through) dig a bit and then pour new concrete in that area. It isn't the ideal option, but it could do everything you are hoping for. You would have a seam between the two concretes but that is nothing if this is to remain a garage. The next question is: How much to demolish the ENTIRE thing and start over v. jacking out the concrete, removing the doors and purchasing new and adding insulation and heat? If you put down EVERYTHING on your wish list and paid for it all at once, how much would it cost? Now compare that to the demolition + rebuild of what would be your own purpose-built garage. How do the two numbers compare? 'Cause once you jack out the slab and remove the door you are inches away from demolition.