Thanks! I kind of figured that...Humidity is usually not a good thing for my Jades and Succulents, they definitely do much better in drier,less humid and cooler months for me. I think that's one of the reasons they grow so well in CA...your humidity is a lot less than here in FL. Also, why I can't seem to root Jade cuttings in the summer...too hot,humid and its our rainy season as well!

Thanks Courtney. First of all, I'm not a professional arborist, so anything I've picked up over the years has either come from my own trial and error or from posts on GW and other places. Regarding mulching, I think it's a good idea to mulch all young trees if for no other reason that to help them become established. It's much easier on the trees when they can grow roots in cool, damp soil rather than in hard, baked soil. So typically when planting a new tree, either a seedling, container-grown or b&b tree, I'll mulch it. Case in point. We have large gardens bed filled with various flowers, trees and shrubs. We have them covered with 2 to 3" of pine bark mulch. Even in the middle of summer the soil under the mulch stays fairly damp and cool, perfect for roots. However, our lawn surrounding the mulched beds is mostly yellow or brown in summer and the soil is extremely hard and dry. I'd never try and plant anything in dried soil like that. We rarely water our mulched garden beds and everything seems to grow well. What type of mulch you use is a matter of personal taste, but pine bark chunks last longer and break down much slower than the fine hardwood mulch. Hardwood mulch is cheaper but you will need to reapply it every year or two as it breaks down quickly. For mature trees, mulching is a matter of aesthetics. We mulch our mature trees to make them "blend in" to our landscape, but that is strictly personal choice. Established trees typically do not need to be mulched but it does cut down on weeds which, in turn, reduces weed trimming and pulling and so forth. Your maples would benefit from mulch and probably establish roots quicker, but again that is up to you. If you want to know how dry the soil is, simply dig a small hole near the trees about 8 to 12" deep. If the soil down there is dry, then you know the maple roots will be dry as well. If the soil is damp and cool, then the roots may be OK and not need as much watering. Much also depends on what type of soil you have and how fast it drains. When watering, remember that occasional deep watering is better than frequent shallow watering. Shallow watering will benefit lawns but typically doesn't get down deep in the soil where the tree roots are. Fertilizing is a difficult subject as everyone has their own opinions on the topic. You can use the spikes if you wish or you can use a general "balanced" garden fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 and apply a couple times per year. If you want to go the organic route you can skip the fertilizers and apply a top dressing of composted manure either in the spring or late fall. Both ways have worked in my experience. Again, just personal taste. HTH Dave

Melissa, yes it's worth it to get your mix ready, even if this particular plant doesn't survive. You can always re-use the mix because the mix is very durable. Money Trees do root very readily, so definitely give it a try as Al suggested. I encourage you to get another plant, though, and you can apply everything you've learned, and enjoy a great experience from day one. Pick up a small, inexpensive Money Tree, plop it into your durable, free-draining mix, water and fertilize, and you will be amazed at how rewarding and easy these trees can be. On a side-note, I don't suggest you take the advice that Anthony is giving. Now is the best time of year to do heavy pruning and re-potting with your Money Trees. In fact, I just chopped my Pachira about a week ago. Notice how it is located in bright shade, just to the edge of where the full sun hits. For transitioning an indoor acclimated plant to the outdoors, this is an optimal location on my property.

Start with the most gentle solvent first: water > denatured alcohol> Goof Off. Always test in an inconspicuous corner first. Change the rag or paper towels often, so as not to spread the residue. Go to Home Depot and grab a few Formica samples from the kitchen center. They are soft enough material so as not to scratch most surfaces, yet their edges are a lot sharper than a credit card. A piece of terry towel dampened in hot water often is sufficient to loosen latex paint, especially fresh paint. Terry cloth is more abrasive than knit cotton.