Inspectors are not engineers or the AHJ. Exactly what is meant by "substandard materials"? Undersized for the span? Wrong grade? It is a relatively commmon mistake made by less knowledgable restorers of old house to use modern lumber of the closest dimension to replace old lumber of full dimension. Old 2x lumber measures a full 2 inches and is 33% stonger compared to modern 1.5 inch 2x lumber. The usual fix is to sister up to full width, and then plane down if needed. Flitch plates are another option if even the original constuction was light. Expecting anything from 1876 to meet modern building codes is just foolish. There will be many things in a house of that age that are not compliant with modern codes. If you do not have the finances to deal with these items walk away. EVERY job in an old structure costs more. Updated does not mean brought up to modern codes in all things.

Without seeing it all in person, seems like it might be easy to move it and allow yourself options. Things that could keep it from being 'easy': Sometimes the framing in the ceiling may affect other possible locations for the light. And, will you/your GC have to call back drywall subs and an electrician to make that little change, or can someone else do it easily? My dh can do drywall, and we did our own electrical, so for me it would have been easy...Not sure what your situation is that way, so can't judge how easy (and costly) this might be for you. Also, how big will your regrets be if you don't get this taken care of when you can? If you don't do it will you be able to shrug it off later and not really care? Current cost vs long term regret...Another thing only you might judge for yourself.

A design book I have recommends a minimum 36" deep table with a bench on one side and chairs on the other, and 24" of table width for each person. It also recommends the following: 20" from the table edge for chair. 32" from the table edge for arising and departing 36" from table edge for squeezing behind seated person 44" from table edge for walking behind seated person Assumes armless chairs. Add 2" to each dimension for armchairs

Floors are done last...traditionally. The reason: gravity works = paint will hit the floor. Even covered up with drop cloths and plastic, things happen and they get expensive if the floor has been damaged. So long as you have chosen all the finishes, you can get the cabs painted and then the walls (done at the same time...or a little later) and then the floors are done last. Remember: everything has a 'cure time'. A cure time is when the finish has COMPLETELY hardened. Not dry....hardened. Some of these cabinet paints take 10 days to fully cure or some take 30 days to fully cure. Your cabinet refinisher will tell you the FULL cure rate (there are several time points to be aware of: 1. Dry time; 2. 95% cure = time to full use; 3. Full cure rate). Once you have the timing of the FULL cure rate you can make arrangements with the flooring people. The reason why the FULL CURE rate is important is this is the time it takes to get the cabinet paint to be THE TOUGHEST it is going to be. That means it is easier to damage the younger it is. A full cure rate means the paint will be as good as it will ever get. It makes it much harder for the flooring people to damage the finish. If there is trim to be added to the cabinets, it can be put on at a later date. The floors can be finished and then the trim can be put on. Or you simply arrange for touch-ups to be added to the cabinets at a later date. It is important to agree upon touch ups for later. It means the cabinet people will keep your colour choice on file (possibly mix enough for manual touch up to be used later). This is easily done. But you have to ask for it/arrange for it. The flooring people will do their best but walls and trim always get a snick of something during a refinish. Again this is one reason why some people pay to have the baseboards removed BEFORE the floors are refinished and then reinstalled (fully painted) at a later date. Again this is something you can arrange with the painters. But it has to be discussed and paid for before the work begins (or budgeted of and then paid once the job has been finished). So long as you understand and PLAN for a little bit of touch up painting to be done AFTER the floors are finished, you will be just fine. Tell both the cabinet people and the painters what you would like done AFTER the floors are finished and they will make arrangements (and budget) for it to happen the way you want it to.