I don't know of any other mower that has a fully open diff like the Snappers. All the others will ratchet forward but not backwards when the drive system is engaged. That's why they maintain 2-wheel-drive on hills, which is helpful there. But the downside is that they don't allow as good maneuverability with the drive engaged, because a sharp turn requires that the operator actually push forward (increase the groundspeed) to make the outside wheel ratchet faster, while the inside wheel continues at the drive system's gear-driven groundspeed. That's a list of pros/cons for each system that must be weighed for each person's particular yard and needs. Unfortunately, there's no cost-effective way to have the best of both. I've been a Snapper user all my life, and moved to a house with a significant hill in the back about 1.5 years ago. I've actually been surprised so far that I can mow across the grade and it keeps driving pretty well. I was worried about this potential traction problem. However, my turf is not very bumpy, and this may be the big difference between the OP's and my results.

Several notes specifically related to your Wheel Horse: 1) You mentioned your mower deck will not accomodate wider tires - must be a 42", as the 48" will. 2) 24" tires should fit ok. 26" may fit if on the proper rims but will be a very tight fit at the fenders. If you go this route I think you'll want to space up the seat/fender with some spacers under the fender. 3) If you use the 23 x 8.50-12 tire size on original rims, I would recommend Firestone 23 degree or a similar tire with relatively flat footprint. The Carlisle lug tires I have seen in this size have a very rounded footprint that, in my opinion, does not work so well on harder surfaces. 4) if you're looking for a used set of rims to fit your WH, they'll most likely need to be from another WH, as few other tractors use wheels with the proper rear offset. 5) My preference would be 23 x 10.50-12 Carlisle Super Lugs mounted on the wider wheel rims as originally used on the 520H and 520-8 tractors. I don't think the 5xi series rear wheels had the proper backspacing for the Classic style tractors. This combo will provide the added benefit of improved side-hill stability, especially if you add bolt-on wheel weights. They will also fit in conjunction with a 48" mower deck, but as you said I don't think they'll work with a 42". 6) I use a 520-8 regularly for mowing with the above wheels/tires and rear weights - haven't seen any adverse effects on the lawn, no spin marks anywhere, and very stable on the hills. It also does a fine job of moving my 6x12 trailer in the yard and even moving dead cars around. 7) Loaded tires work fine for traction, but as a hobbyist restoring old tractors I am not a fan of any corrosive liquid in the wheels/tires. Ed

Makes sense garlic man. I contacted a garlic grower I know about the silver white and he told me the same thing. I have been replanting my stock at home for years, but at work, we purchase planting stock, as we sell all our garlic at the market. The silver white will be sold at market for eating, as will our 7 other varieties and all the scapes they produce.

Hm.... I think the island had to be a 36" cabinet max, with overhang off the back? There might have been room to have a small overhang off the left, near the DR. I'd have to double check. There are things I do like about the L + island, including the larger pantry in the kitchen. What I don't like is a) seeing the kitchen floor wide open from the front door b) the fact that it doesn't play so nice with the BS window and pushes kitchen seating towards the fridge/sliding doors. And, you are right, the plan doesn't work so hot with the bump out. If we went with the smaller 7" bump out, I could modify/customize a pantry cabinet on the end where the bump out is - make it less deep but long to accomodate a microwave and food storage. So, I guess it could still get figured out? As the bump out gets larger, it seems harder to make the L work. It also pushes the walkway space further to the left and squeezes it even tighter...leaving something more like an isle/atoll instead of an island. lol I was able to meet with the woman who designed that last kitchen - and can hire her for a $500 fee that would be applied to the cabinets if I went through them. I really, really liked her. She showed me the stacked stone - and it explicitly talks about it being cleanable, kitchen ready, etc. She's going to contact the owner, who she is still friends with 2 years later (I think that's a good sign) and see how it is holding up in the kitchen. I dunno, there's just something about mixing materials that I like here. The smooth glass tile, looking modern, combined with the stacked stone just seems fun and kinda true to the house? But, then the issue comes up about where to terminate the darn tile! Do you wrap it totally around the hallway to the W/D cubby or just end it on the wall somehow after the bump out? And how much does all this add to the budget? And what does it do the possibility of hanging shelves or what-not off of the bump out? (I have these great hammered measuring cups and spoons I could hang on the side of the bump out in the kitchen nook, if we bump out it) I have another appt at 11 am tomorrow to look at other frameless options, that are probably out of my budget. They offered to do some pricing for free, but they are expensive to hire. I FEEL like I am getting some momentum going and am not too far from appliance, layout and cabinet decisions I could live with and love. Getting some numbers should help with that. The flooring and counter and tile is still stumping me to a large extent - not to mention the darn budget. lol We are emptying the LR and kitchen (slowly) in preparation for the tear down. My partner is focused on moving the electrical. I keep reminding myself how much this is saving me when I think about how long it is going to take. However, up until now, him going slow has been fine because I really have not known what I want and so it just gives me more time. As I figure out what I want and get things ordered, I imagine I will get less patient... I love the materials in the enormous kitchen you just posted. The dark brown is about the perfect shade of brown, isn't it? It plays so nice with the white on top. That kitchen is not only huge, though, it is so open and has a ton of light and height. Look at the width of those floor planks, too! I like that floor color. Does it look brown enough and not too golden? I want to stay away from yellow, orange and gold tones on the floor without going too dark in my little house. Tricky. Something like that might be a compromise point? Thanks for the link to the cabinet info. This, I admit, is the stuff that bores me. I know, I know, I need to know. I also appreciate your first hand experience with IKEA. Did you ever post pics? Sounds like you have reservations of both the boxes/frames and the doors. My aunt in Chicago decided to remodel her kitchen after me - and is about 90% done with an IKEA kitchen. She went creme on top (the shiny modern doors) with a new door on the bottom that is sort of driftwood looking to me. Must be veneer. So, she is getting a 2-toned IKEA kitchen, without any influence from me. Irony. I'm excited to see it. Did you ever post pics of your basement IKEA kitchenette? I'd love to see! Icelady! It's good to hear from you. Saga is the right word! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction to get reconnected with GI. I've really lost track of the old crew.