I don't know of any other mower that has a fully open diff like the Snappers. All the others will ratchet forward but not backwards when the drive system is engaged. That's why they maintain 2-wheel-drive on hills, which is helpful there. But the downside is that they don't allow as good maneuverability with the drive engaged, because a sharp turn requires that the operator actually push forward (increase the groundspeed) to make the outside wheel ratchet faster, while the inside wheel continues at the drive system's gear-driven groundspeed. That's a list of pros/cons for each system that must be weighed for each person's particular yard and needs. Unfortunately, there's no cost-effective way to have the best of both. I've been a Snapper user all my life, and moved to a house with a significant hill in the back about 1.5 years ago. I've actually been surprised so far that I can mow across the grade and it keeps driving pretty well. I was worried about this potential traction problem. However, my turf is not very bumpy, and this may be the big difference between the OP's and my results.

Thanks Tom, that's all I could come up with the more I looked at it. Bought this belt at a mower shop 3 yrs ago based my mower's model #. I'll be there picking up replacement axle bearings on Friday and will grab a belt then.

Thanks all! DH got the message about the insurance company, TG! He took all the estimates [best is now just under $1200] and went over to their house last night, but, oh my, father is out of town until Saturday and mom (who is/was the nicest of the bunch) says father is the one who will take care of it. I'll believe it when I see the money. Jaz, the vehicle was on private property, so in this locale it is not *required* to involve the police. Even so, I admit I wish I had called them immediately. I had thought that only the plastic/glass covering and lightbulbs were broken; that would have cost less than $100 to repair. To me that wasn't a biggie, and could/should have been settled easily with something like having the kid do yardwork in reparation. It was later that evening when I learned that the damage included a deeply bent area in the signal unit's framework along with more dents in the adjoining quarter panel and door. That's when I realized the police should have been called immediately, if for nothing more than an impersonal legal presence. Well, tomorrow is Saturday, and methinks that father had best have money ready upon his return, or I'm liable to get my favorite lawyer directly involved. My present mantra is to follow Teddy Roosevelt's maxim: "Walk quietly, and carry a big stick."

I don't know what size tires you have, but you'd better be aware how much it costs to replace them before you start customizing them, just in case. I was quite surprised to see how much a replacement 23" turf tire set me back a few years ago after some rebar went through the sidewall: about $80. My main concern with trimming turf tires into ag tires is that the valleys between the lugs will be very thin and susceptible to puncture. I'm not sure of the exact thickness, but I'm pretty sure the thinnest part of the tread on my Carlisle Tru-Power tires is much thicker than the portion of the tread between the blocks on my Turf Masters. You can buy new ag tires pretty cheap on eBay ($90 for a 23"), and the Asian import tires are dirt cheap. Interesting note on siping (not sniping, which is done with a rifle): Michelin is the only manufacturer I know of that features full-depth sipes. Stability is a big challenge with all season tires, and most major manufacturers only run the sipes a third of the way down into the tread blocks, with full-depth sipes and weak rubber compounds, you'd lose cornering ability as the blocks walked under lateral G-loads. So they compensate for their cheap rubber by only cutting the sipes halfway. The disadvantage is when you're half-depth siped tires are halfway through their life, they've essentially shed their all-season capability. Michelin uses such high quality materials they've figured out how to have your cake and eat it too, and your tires will have decent ice traction down to the last 2/32. One last plug (no pun): I worked my way through college in a tire shop, selling and installing, and Michelin has always been in a league of their own. They are the most expensive, and they are absolutely the best. I actually just bought an Ideal brand 120v tire regroover on eBay for something like $40. I'm going to use it to get through the rest of the winter on the cheap tires that came on my truck. I prefer to buy tires in the fall, not the spring (and they will be Michelin LTX M/S). The cheap (but not inexpensive) Kuhmo tires it came with not only didn't have full depth sipes, but the shoulder blocks only went halfway down, so now with probably 20k mi left in the tires, they have a solid shoulder which means no snow traction and poor water evacuation. So I'm planning to open up the shoulders a bit this weekend. If it works as planned, I won't hydroplane for a few more months. If it doesn't, I'll be buying tires a little sooner! Here is a link that might be useful: regroovers