You can't nail or staple to concrete. So your options would be to glue or, yes, forgot about floating. Not sure I'd want to float a floor with potential for liquid spills. Research slab installations for limitations and requirements, but the specific flooring documents will tell you how they need to be installed and cared for. It looks like the linked floor is 3/4'. Glue down is typically 3/8', some can go up to 1/2' but I'm not sure it's a best practice. Can't remember floating specs either but they are usually thinner, maybe up to 1/2' and need to be at least 3 inches wide, as I recall. They are certainly easier for install and removal. These new floors just do not hold up like the solid wood ones of the past. Engineered can be better than solid depending on the weather in your location. Beveled edges are often if not always used for prefinished floors so the boards can fit together as a flush surface. With square edges on solid unfinished, they install, sand flush and then finish. There are micro bevels that are less noticeable. Be aware of the board lengths of the floor you select, if you want a traditional random length look. The cuts today are often shorter and sometimes even all the same. Note how much variation in color/grain there is. There is a scale for comparison. Also be aware of the way floating floors sound and feel under foot, with or without underlayments, before you commit. They have a different hollow sound and feel. One I walked on in a show room, supposedly professional install, squeaked like the devil all over. Unfortunately, you need to do your research quite a bit on this! Make sure you know how they will install it so that it will meet specs. Avoid the mass production stair stepping method and H joints. Make sure the wood is acclimated to your house for a number of weeks; stored flat, only two or three boxes high. Floor must be flat and level; checked for moisture content and be in equilibrium with the flooring boards moisture content at install . Etc! And verify anything I've said, lol. Installers are not necessarily diligent (or even reasonably careful) with this stuff. Here's a link with some pointers: Here is a link that might be useful: Hardwood installation tips This post was edited by snookums2 on Wed, Jul 31, 13 at 20:11

Lucky There are a few blackjacks in my area but southern red oak is the most common red oak species. I've got southern reds native on my place but no blackjacks native although I have a planted one. Southern reds are prolific, I find loads of volunteers. The first year seedling foliage on SOME CAN look like mature blackjack foliage, but I watched them for 30 years and they always turn into southern red oaks lol. The other day I found my first blackjack seedling. My planted tree has been fruiting for several years and I've had my eye out but this is a first. There is no mistaking, the seedling is definitely blackjack, its foliage looks exactly like the parent tree. Around here, southern red oak blooms way earlier than blackjack, some years getting frozen. I think the tree in the OP is probably falcata or a hybrid, but I'm no oak expert.

3" is an odd size flooring width. Solid hardwood is available at 3 1/4" for a standard size. You have engineered red oak flooring. The thickness is most likely 3/8". Which has been glued down. To confirm, knock on the floor. If, you have a solid knock, it's engineered glue down. If, it's hollow, you have a floating floor or hollow spots in your glue down flooring.

Regarding the acorns the caps need to be included to get the full picture. But I also thought the foliage looked like that of black oak so that is two votes.