Gojo's DIY 'CEDHF': (Cold Enzymatically Digested Hydrolyzed Fish) Weigh out equal amounts (1:1) of bycatch or edible whole fish to distilled water. Either dice and mince the fish or put it through a food processor, or a strong blender like a vita-mixer. You need to throughly process the fish into small pieces. Preheat an oven to 122 degrees F (50 degrees C) Lay the fish onto a baking tray, and try not to layer the fish if you can help it. Place the tray into the oven and bake the fish for 0.5-2 minutes, depending upon the quantity and size of fish chunks.[4][5] * It is possible to use a microwave instead of the oven, I can provide info if there is interest. * Heating inactivates the endogenous enzymes (and microbes) which are on and in the fish. I want to control what enzymes and microbes are present. * This step could be skipped and the 'endogenous enzyme activity [of the fish] alone'[6] can digest most of the fish. But I don't want unknown enzymes and microbes in the finished hydrolyzed fish so that's why I heat it. Cover the fish and let it cool. Then and add the fish, along with the distilled water into a strong blender like a vita-mixer and liquefy (5-10 minutes). Adjust the resulting 'fluid' to a ph of 5 using phosphoric acid (aka 'ph down'[7]) * Because I am using a cold enzyme digestion process the ph needs to be low to prevent the gurry from putrefying[2]. * From what I've been able to glean a ph of 4.5 is optimal to prevent putrefaction of gurry. But, a ph of 5 is optimal for papain enzyme action[8][9]. So, I chose a ph of 5 as this will speed the papain's digestion of the fish which will of course shorten the digestion time and reduce the chance (time wise) of the gurry putrefying. * Use of phosphoric acid is suggested when horticulture is the intended target and phosphoric acid acts as a stabilizer for the gurry[2]. * Use the blender to fully mix the phosphoric acid when testing the ph. Add papain to gurry with an enzyme to fish (not gurry) ratio of 700-1,000 U to a gram of fish[5] * 'Papain'[10] and 'Alcalase'[11] are the two best known enzymes for digesting fish[5][6] and Alcalase will digest up to 95% of the fish[6]. But, Alcalase prefers a ph of 7-9[11] and it is expensive and hard to find. However, Papain also digests a large quantity of fish[6], but it's ideal ph is 5 and it is inexpensive and easy to find[12]. * So, you will want to add about 1,000 U of papain per gram of fish product (not gurry). Each pill of 'Natural Brand™ Papaya Enzyme'[12] conatins 60,000 U of papain. I'll leave the math up the person making hydrolyzed fish following my directions... * Buy a pill splitter[13] (about $5.00) and you can split the papain pill into 4 or 6 pieces for greater accuracy. Though, it's better have too much enzyme than not enough. * Grind the papain pill/s into a fine powder, this will help disperse the papain throughout the fluid. I use a mortar and pestle[14] to pulverize my pills, you can get these at a pharmacy for around $10.00. * Use the blender to fully mix the papain with the fish liquid. * A 'U' is a 'USP unit'[15], which is also synonymous with 'IU' (international unit) [16]. Place the gurry in cool location (ala refrigerator) between 35 and 38 degrees F (1.7 to 3.3 degrees C) for 4-6 weeks. Filter finished gurry through 100-400 micron screen. The Kis compost tea bag[17] is 400 micron and may work very well, and it's only $10.00. Use the 'CEDHF' lol * Check the ph, I bet it will be around 5-6, lower is better I would assume but I have no data on that...I'm still just feeling my way around... Here is a link that might be useful: Wildlife Gardeners' Forum

I have a 14 x 12 x 3' deep pond that has river rocks in the bottom. We live in the woods and net the pond each August to keep most of the leaves out. Some still get in and get trapped between the rocks. My pond is full of bull frogs, I also have fish and my fish breed and those babies are tiny, I have given up on draining and cleaning that way. I purchased a product that breaks up the organic matter and either use my pond vac or just stir up the water so that the filter can do it's job. My pond vac has a mesh sock that you put over the nozzle to prevent gravel, baby fish, tadpoles or snails from being sucked up into it. Also a heavy plant load in the pond can really help with the excess nutrients that cause the algae blooms.

Ritamay, It might depend on what exactly is causing your allergy. I am allergic to iodine and the Dr told me not to eat a lot of shell fish and that sort. I have never had a problem with it, but I don't eat shrimp or lobster. Actually Minnesotans don't eat as much seafood as people in coastal areas. We mostly have freshwater fish. I think the FISH OIL is from salt water fish. If you have dealt with the allergy at your doctors office, you may be able to get some help by calling his/her nurse.

Well, a hood can be designed to do whatever you want it to do within the limits of physics (or more precisely, fluid dynamics). Removal of most of the grease particulate spectrum and any non-grease particles composing smoke, along with excess moisture, are primary functions of kitchen cooktop ventilation. In the process, all odors that are entrained in the rising and hopefully captured and contained effluent are also removed. Obviously, if an odor generator is removed from under the hood, or the hood is turned off, then odor is not captured and contained. The capture and containment process is aided by the uprising velocity of the cooking effluent and (where applicable) gas burner combustion products. A pile of room temperature cilantro on top of a cold cooktop will out-gas in all directions, and if either the air motion locally, or cilantro oil molecular propagation speed is higher than the hood air velocity at the cooktop surface (generally very low, even on full power) then one will smell cilantro throughout the kitchen. I might argue that is welcome, but other odors may not be so nice. For eshmh: My velocity values are derived from peak thermal plume velocities as described by "Thermal plumes of kitchen appliances: Cooking mode," Kosonen, Koskela, and Saarinen, in Elsevier B.V., Energy and Buildings, and attempt to account for the effect of baffles on moderating the blower air velocity averaged over the baffle space relative to the peak cooking plume velocity shown in this reference. A similar velocity approach is one of the sizing methods described by Greenheck in their document, available on-line, KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf. Due to the necessity to capture and contain effluent from any burner when it impacts the baffles, even with the other burners off, the air velocity entering the baffles has to be high enough at any point under the baffles. Hence, we can design for one burner's peak plume velocity and achieve good capture and containment even if all burners are operating. However, the cooking plume velocity shape (measured transverse to "up") is rather like a peaked-up Gaussian function, and has significant width tails that may easily exceed the hood horizontal size at the hood height under some conditions. Capture of all the plume all of the time is unlikely with most space limited residential kitchen hoods. Conversely, the total plumes' mass rate of rise with all burners operating will be less than the total mass air flow through the baffles from the hood blower so long as the velocity of the hood air is high enough to preclude peak plume reflection off of the baffles and into the kitchen. This is because we designed the velocity to deal with the peak plume velocities which exist over only part of the zone into which the plume rises. If the hood velocity at the baffles is too low, then reflection occurs at the baffles, leading to effluent spillage, as shown below. (From CKV_Design_Guide_2_031504.pdf, (c) 2002 by the California Energy Commission.) kas