We decided to go with brazilian cherry (jatoba) 3/4" solid, because we couldn't find a supplier with FSC Certification (forestry stewardship council). Keep in mind that exotic woods cry out for oil-based polyeurothane, and tend to look 'washed out' with water based stain/poly. Ipe is a gorgeous wood though, I am sure you will be very happy with it. One last thing -- make sure your installers are honest with you about the installation cost and methodology. Someone with more knowledge maybe can chime in on this, but Ipe is one of the hardest woods available, and I think it will need to be pre-drilled before it is nailed into the subflooring, otherwise the wood is prone to splitting. Do not let your installers use staples with flooring that hard.

Anyone? I am also looking at this brand but it seems no one know what it is. This is the best review I've seen for simpleFLOORS but I still don't know anything about the quality of the product: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSeet9tcVQQ Check out the related stuff too - it's simpleFLOORS account, but has informative reviews. Here is a link that might be useful: Review

Thank you Phila_2009 for letting me know since one store told me that the area under the cabinets may never become the same color since I do not have a lot of light in my home office since my windows are only in the front of my office and are only opened at the top and bottom with the middle covered and really only the area in front of my desk gets natural sunlight. The rest of the room has chrome Fluorescent 300 wattage Torchiere Lamps with no other windows. All the cabinets (supply and file) are a light putty color). In the family room, I know the floor will look wonderful and get a lot of light with the 4 big windows that face the woods (but I usually keep the sheer horizontal blinds closed to let in light and have privacy and the room never gets hot so maybe I do not get a lot of sun there with all the big trees shading the area) and I plan to not have a carpet or rug in that room with just the beige sofa and recliner and glass end tables and coffee table. The Oak TV stand is on wheels so I can move it around. What I am worried about is the four 5-drawer 42" wide file cabinets that will be on the home office floors (my living room and dining room I made into my home office) & three 42" wide 2-drawer file cabinets and two 30" wide two drawer file cabinets in the two room home office that has also a desk, computer desk and a credenza. I also have two supply cabinets in the dining room part blocking another desk for a part-time worker. It is amazing how much furniture I have in the two room home office. Maybe I shouldn't worry and when I move, I will just have to explain to buyers why the floor is two different colors with more of the floor light that was covered than dark that was exposed? I don't plan on moving soon but life is full of surprises and if I meet someone and we want to move to a bigger place, I worry about the color change. For now I do love my townhouse that is the size I need and is in a great beautiful location. The Brazilian Cherry floors go so well with the different woods I have in my home especially the cherry office furniture and the cherry legs on the glass tables in the family room. My kitchen has oak cabinets open to the family room and my stair way has a walnut railing. My walls are all light and so are my blinds.

@AboutToGetDusty Rubio Monocoat involves an extra recoating step called "water popping" that Waterlox does not. Water popping for Rubio Monocoat requires extra time to perform and time to wait for drying. This step opens the grain to make the wood more receptive to the sealant, and this is neither required nor recommended with Waterlox. Waterlox is a wipe-and-go recoat unless you have scratches in which case you buff them out before reapplication, same as you would do to address scratches prior to Rubio Monocoat recoating. @Sammy The previous commenter is referring to a "robust film-forming coating" like conversion varnish. My aunt has butcher block around her kitchen sink, and she treated it with five coats of gloss lacquer before using it, for example. It's not a finish that looks natural for those who want the natural look, but it is the finish most impervious to water. @AboutToGetDusty Be careful with the recommendation that walnut is fine for use around water. Walnut of any quality is naturally a tight grain but not classified as a closed grain like maple, cherry or hickory, which thus makes it more vulnerable to water contact since water is capable of entering and traveling through the pores. An oil-based finish mixture with some wax-type substance added to it like Waterlox will work better for you than a straight oil finish as far as lasting between recoats, even if you are recoating weekly. I've read several reviews of people who have used butcher block around the sink, and one unexpected pitfall is mold from drips underneath the handle where the faucet is turned on and off, and sometimes this is from other members of the family who aren't as careful about wiping away water as is the primary cook. You could consider a touch faucet to help prevent this or place a tray underneath that area to help prevent mold. Also be aware that tap water is usually acidic unless it has been treated, and repeated contact of acidic water with walnut wood can create a chemical reaction that may cause brown discoloration. Using an effective sealant and keeping the area dry will help guard against this.