You know the saying, if it quacks like a duck it's a grass. Or whatever. Control is probably the first order of business. I'm assuming you have a standard tri-mix (Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, and rye) lawn. If that's wrong, let me know. Tenacity herbicide will at least control the P. annua, but fall effectiveness can be a bit questionable. Hopefully it'll zap it enough that it weakens and General Winter takes it out. If not, you can keep going in spring to weaken it before summer. I'm not sure about the quack's response to Tenacity, hopefully somebody else will chime in. It tends to be a long battle. Manual removal might help, but the stuff has probably dropped tens of thousands of seeds, which will be quite happy to sprout once the area is clear. If that's the case, pre-emergent is your best bet...since spring seedings tend to fail anyway. Late summer is the time to seed the lawn. At that time, when you seed, you can also use Tenacity as a pre-emergent that won't touch your grass seeds...but will do a serious number on P. annua (I'm not sure about quack).

Wow... that was a lot of information! Dmt gave good information and probably knows a lot more than me. I live in JAX area also, and had my yard trenched for AT&T. Those areas usually die b/c you would have to water it like new sod. Half of mine survived, half didn't. When I moved in last fall all my neighbors had decent looking front yards. Now almost all of them near me have what looks like extensive damage from something. My back yard has issues, not sure what, but so far my front yard, seemingly in danger from whatever is ailing my area of the street, is holding on strong. Sites like this rescued my front yard (HOC, watering, bug damage, etc...). Can't see your sprinkler head you mention. If the sprinkler head is above the ground level you could reposition it to be level with the ground (may need a taller pop up if you do that). You may have tried, but you can usually adjust the spray radius of the sprinkler heads so maybe you could even out that wet spot by adjusting the nozzles. Organic is noble, but I can't help you there. I do use milorganite (greenedge is the local almost equivalent in our area), although my wife complained yesterday about the smell of both. Oh, weed #2 looks like surge to me. Celsius will kill it I think... Bottom right of the bare spot #3 picture looks like maybe some kind of sedge or kyllinga seed heads. It looks suppressed, possibly from the previous weed treatment company. A couple weeks after you think it was treated last you could try treating it again. I think Celsius kills kyllinga but not nutsedge, and sedgehammer kills nutsedge but only 'supresses' kyllinga. So there's a conundrum-proper weed ID would obviously help. You could try each but make sure to space out apps by at least a couple weeks to make sure your grass isn't stressed from the app, probably don't want to apply the herbicide if your grass is stressed. You could probably get away with using sedgehammer on anything nutsedge like, hand pull the rest (as a general rule you don't pull up nutsedge) as they come up, and apply a quality pre-emergent in the fall. I say that b/c honestly your yard looks pretty decent. It's not that bad, at least not in the photos. Of course it doesn't' compare to the lawns of the experts on these forums, but us normal people have to keep our expectations in check. You may of course evolve into an expert... Have you checked for chinch bugs? Hopefully the experts chime in if I misspoke...

You most likely have a mix of fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, possibly rye, and some weeds. I would water that with an oscillator sprinkler that has an adjustable spread on it. Set it up to be in the center of the lawn and sweep from phone box by the road to the other end. It will take hours and hours to get deep watering done, but deep is deep. My oscillator takes 8 hours to put out an inch. You may only have to water once every 2-3 weeks when you do it that deep. When you renovate, do you want to kill everything that's there? That's about the only way to make a pure KBG lawn. Here's the general nature of how that goes. Change to daily watering for only 5 minutes, but 3x per day. The idea is to germinate all the weed seeds. Do that for a week and spray with Round Up, Grass-b-Gon, or whatever plant killer you are allowed to use. Then continue watering 3x per day for another week to get the slow sprouting weeds. Spray again to get that stuff. Let that all die for a week, rake up the dead stuff, level the surface the way you want it, scatter seed, roll the seed down (or for 1,000 square feet just walk on it to press the seed down onto the soil). Then continue watering 3x per day same as before to sprout the grass seed. KBG seed takes about 3 weeks to get 80% germination. With the prep and Round UP, you should not get any weeds in this lawn. Do this as early as you can in the fall so you have time to redo any spots that came out thin. KBG will spread to fill, but not much the first year. When it gets up to 5 inches tall, mow it down to 4 inches or whatever the mower's highest setting is. With all that in mind, are you up to that much of a project? Raking it up is the only hard part. If you are not allowed to use herbicides, you might need to have a landscaper come in with a tractor and a box blade to scrape the surface off. That will leave the perfect surface for new seed.

Sister Kenny contributed so much when Poio was a scourge, it was the worry of every parent when there was some child with polio in the neighborhood. I hope the disease stays wiped out. Love to read writer's quotes, as I love to write. A good day for quotes today...and it is raining!