RE: Motivation Personally I'd say that you need to look inside yourself at what you want (why you're selling the house) instead of where you are. I'm trying not to be too cold here but you really need to get over the motivation issue and just "get 'er done" If you're suffering motivational issues then you need to drop the price and get the deal over with. For example, if I said I'd have your house sold in a month but you'd need to pay X amount out of pocket, what would be the maximum X amount that you'd accept....there's your number. RE: House Condition This is a problem, people are looking for a home in most cases, no a house (investors or single people would be the exception). Would you want to buy a messy home? Surely you've read all of the tips on selling and have implemented all of them. A few of the bigger 'violators' that I've seen: remove personal effects (photos, family heirlooms, etc) RE: Showings Keep in mind that you can say no. I'd be frank with realtors and ask if they've prequalified their buyers and why they want to look at your place. Be warned however that some realtors will be offended and might not show your place in the future. If you agent has it together they should be making follow-up calls to their showing agents and ask why their buyers didn't want the place and what would need to happen to get an offer. Our realtor did this with our place and he was one of the best I've seen. What does a market analysis look like for comparable homes in your area? RE: Listing If the house is as large as you say I'd look for homeschool or other groups that have large families in your area and ask if you could forward the listing information to their email distribution list or drop off some flyers. Some of these organizations tend to be close knit and information will get around fast. RE: Contract Make the contract time as short as possible. There are many buyers holding out for 'the big drop' and the longer you wait the worse it will get as people see longer times on the market. Start of '07 with a bang and get it sold......

In addition to adding all the things becky mentioned in order to reduce pH and/or improve the soil tilth, you could add sawdust. Sounds odd, but it is supposed to be great for soil structure when it breaks down. Morpheus used to recommend this. You don't want sawdust with anything like glues in it. The best thing is a product like Equine Pine, which is compressed sawdust pellets for horse stables. I got some at Tractor Supply one time for $5 per 50 lb bag. I put down a full 50 lb per ksf with my spreader opened wide up. It will quickly dissolve into the soil and a week later you won't even know it was there. It does take a long time to break down and you don't want to till it in as it will rob nitrogen from your grass. On the surface it will get the nitrogen it needs to break down from the air ... Just a thought. It's something you might add once or twice a year.

You had a lively discussion last year, didn't you? I have a lower target for phorphorus than Morph had and I calculate that you're short on phosphate by about 1.25 lb/k. But instead of starter fertilizer, I suggest Milorganite. The main problem with alkaline soils is that phosphorus binds up quickly with calcium and is then not available to the plant. With Milorganite the phosphorus will be released gradually as organisms die. You will also get chelated iron. You're ok on potassium. So do your early fall fertilization with Milorganite. Use 20 lb/k to get 1 lb/k nitrogen and 0.8 lb.k phorphorus. I don't see what kind of grass you have (KBG, rye, fescue?), only that you're in the Midwest. How much nitrogen a year do you normally do? In general, when the soil is warm (and microbes are active), use an organic fertilizer that has some phosphorus (most do) and use synthetic when you're fertilizing when the soil is cold, like the late fall fertilization. I have not heard that cracked corn will lower pH. Sulfur is what lowers pH and it is not practical to try to lower pH over a yard with sulfur. You could use elemental sulfur to lower pH for a flower bed or planting hole. For times you use synthetic fertilizer, look for ammonium sulfate. It is the most acidifying fertilizer. Be sure to water it in. Don't worry too much about your pH. Grass will grow in alkaline soil.

Here in my part of Michigan, the roses already have to contend with a long winter with undependable snow cover. I learned a few years ago that what I do this year in the garden is what I will get back next year. When it is hot and humid out (93+ degrees), and I don't want to be outside...I cheer myself along with, "This is for next year, this is for next year..." That said, I think getting a thick (3-4") mulch down in a wide circle (at least 18") around the rose bush is THE most important garden chore for me to do. I try to get it done by the end of April -- it always pays off!