hello: the in-laws were in-town this weekend to "advise" us on our reno. they suggested not removing the 12x12 throughout the main portions of the house where we would like to put down engineered wood. half of the area that will be wood is tile, and half is carpet. they suggested we just lay down plywood "or something" to even the areas where we've pulled up the carpet with the areas where we have not yet removed the tile. they say the installers will lay the moisture barrier over all of that anyways and removing tile is a pita. btw, we are on an on grade slab in Florida--high dew point, high humidity, etc. my question: how bad of an idea is leaving the tile and laying the engineered wood over it? thanks.

HI "madaboutkitchens" I am sure your installer was talking about engineered floating wood floors that can be installed directly on your existing parquet. Theoretically,it should work on any sound hard surfaces. In reality, you would want to consider the height drop from your new wood floors to other floor coverings in our house. Is there any proper transition moldings available to connect? Will you be happy with the final look? The door jambs have to be cut and base boards have to be raised up. These should all be well planned or foreseen before any actions. Hope my 2 cents can help. Good luck with your project.

Hi Lisa This forum can be frustrating at times I suggest you Google this  I bet you will find lots of info. What I am going to say next is what I have gleaned from the Internet  nothing first hand It is my understanding that floating hardwood floors can go over tile. You said it is "almost" flat. The "almost" might cause a "floating" feeling when walking on it. From a previous thread on here, the accepted standard of flat is within 3/16" in 10' and or 1/8" on 6'. 1) You should ask your installer if your floor meets this requirement. 2) If not, you can probably float a filler. This has been discussed on the forum as well. This is a product available at the Big Box stores and I do have positive personal experience with this. Again  ask your installer about this. 3) You want to lay a good underlayment  such as "Floor Muffler". For the third time, IÂm going to suggest you discuss this with your installer. One last "2-cent" tip  If your installer doesnÂt have answers to these questions that leave you feeling like you are in good hands  keep looking for an installer that does. The wrong one can cause *lots* of headaches and lots of wasted $$$. BTW  ClickLock is meant for DIY. You can do this yourself. But if you donÂt want to, you can probably find non ClickLock that is less expensive to purchase and would probably cost the same for installation. HTH! Jeri

Industry standard is minimum 5/8" T & G panels, 3/4" square end panels or 1 x 6 planks.