Vinegar weed killer is applied as a foliar mist, not a soil drench. It should have zero effect on the soil pH. Even if it was applied as a soil drench, vinegar is a carbohydrate which is immediately picked up by soil bacteria as food. And if you have any lime already in your soil, vinegar would convert to carbonic acid which is exactly what plants use to convert minerals to useful plant food. But I can almost guarantee you that vinegar will have no long term effect on creeping charlie. If it were that easy, everyone would be doing it. Instead they are using RoundUp and reapplying at least 2 more times to finally get rid of the charlie. CC develops a very dense mat of roots under the soil which seems to help prevent new plants (like grass) from growing. Once you get the plant killed, then those roots become organic matter in your soil and the soil microbes will decompose them. But killing it completely dead is the hard part. If you have long term success with vinegar, please write back with details of your approach and strength of the vinegar, etc. The world is anxious to have a reliable way to get rid of this monster weed. As for overseeding, assuming you applied the vinegar as a foliar mist, then seeding anytime after the weed is really dead should be no problem. I would water it lightly 2x per day for a few days to see if the charlie springs back. This post was edited by dchall_san_antonio on Fri, Sep 13, 13 at 16:37

I wrote this about Eleanor's VF-11, which probably uses the same ad copy writer as Superthrive, a long time ago. The guaranteed analysis of the primary macro-nutrients (NPK) in Eleanor's is Analysis: 0.15 - 0.85 - 0.55 This is less than 1% of ANY of the majors. 1/8 of 1% N, 7/8 of 1% P, 1/2 of 1% K. This is EXTREMELY low in fertility. Since I cannot find the rest of the analysis, I'm going to guess the rest of the nutrients are probably nonexistent or nearly so. I haven't used this potion (VF-11), but then, you don't need to ride the bus to know what makes the wheels go round & round. Forgive me for being somewhat skeptical or even cynical, but when vague claims are made like: ".... and mildew is eliminated because VF-11 changes the pH and creates a condition where mildew can not grow. Once again, isn't it amazing?" I wonder why there isn't something specific in the claim. Changes the pH of what? Soil? Cellular pH? Leaf surface pH - for how long? Hmmm I also wonder at: "VF-11 builds so much strength and health that plant cells 'harden' and 'seal in' the amino acids which aphids feed on. You have merely eliminated their food supply. And you have done it without the use of poisonous systemic or pesticides. Pretty nice...huh?" Don't aphids feed on sap? How does this product eliminate sap, or make the sap unavailable to aphids? Does it somehow make cells so hard that they cannot be penetrated - and dry up all the intra-cellular plant water/sap? Shouldn't I/we be saying GMAB here? There's more, but you get the drift. I wouldn't say that this product has no benefit, as it may very well have somesize>, but I am of the general feeling there is no significant, and surely no panacean value to products like Superthrive or the VF-11 elixir; and it's a good bet it's not the magic potion some may think it to be. I don't trust advertising that is false on its face, and this alone is enough to feed the skeptic in me. One thing additional: The claim that "....you cannot overdo ....", means there could only be extremely minute (almost immeasurable or nonexistent) amounts of any micro-nutrients in it because micro-nutrient overdose produces toxicity at even low levels, and over-doing would reveal readily visible symptoms, quickly. Like I said, I wouldn't argue that it has no value, but I do know that I would invest in a good fertilizer with micro-nutrients before I would trust plant vitality to a product labeled with insubstantial claims. ************************************************** We know the placebo effect is alive and unwittingly witnessed to on these forums because we can often find claims made about magic ingredients that are physically and physiologically impossible, and defy what we know of science. In most cases, people are simply seeing what they think they are supposed to see. That may ruffle some feathers, but it doesn't negate the fact that time and again I've seen cause/effect relationships so badly misconstrued that it makes us wonder what might be going through some one's mind. One of the reasons I can say this is, I have (dozens & dozens of times) had people attribute wonderful things to a change to either the 5:1:1 or gritty mix, when I know with absolute certainty that it was MUCH too soon for any change of the reported magnitude to have taken place. I offer that in the interest of honesty, because even though the soils mentioned provide a very hospitable abode for roots, they can't work miracles. Plants are genetically programmed to grow well. They need certain things. Good soil, light, fertilizer, temperature ..... to grow well. Concentrating on making these PRIMARY factors as unlimiting as we can will always yield more gain than putting our faith in miracle cures we think can make up for other shortcomings. They can't. Get the basics right and you're 90% of the way there - THEN worry about the fine tuning. Did that sound like a rant? ;-) I hope it was closer to just straightforward info. Al

Took some digging but I found it. I don't recall where it came from - I scribbled it on the back of a membership renewal form I got in 2004. 1.5 lb boneless pork tenderloin 1/2C flour 1/2 tsp salt 1/4 tsp black pepper 1 Tbsp olive oil 2 Tbsp shallots 2 cloves garlic 2/3C balsamic vinegar 1/2C chicken broth 1 Tbsp fresh sage 1 Tbsp fresh rosemary 1 Tbsp fresh thyme 1. Coat the tenderloin with flour, salt and pepper. Shake off excess . 2. Heat oil in skillet and brown the meat on all sides. 3. Add shallots and garlic, cook 2 minutes. 4. Add vinegar and broth, bring to simmer, place pan in 350F oven, roast 20-25 minutes, basting often. 5. When pork has reached 145F, remove from oven and sprinkle fresh herbs on top, baste. 6. Remove to heated platter and slice after resting 10 minutes. Serve drizzled with pan juices. Hmm, now that I have a Nesco roaster (2 of them in fact, large and small and I almost bought another today at Goodwill!) I may try this in that rather than the oven.

pH affects the uptake of nutrients and it looks to me, as you probably concluded, that it is iron chlorosis. This is from University of Illinois: Iron becomes more insoluble as the soil pH climbs above 6.5 to 6.7 (7.0 is neutral - below 7.0, the pH is acidic; above 7.0, the pH is alkaline). With most plants, iron can only be absorbed as a free ion (Fe++) when the pH is between 5.0 and 6.5. My tap water comes from four town wells. The pH varies during the year because the town varies which wells are used and I suspect that the pH may vary during the year in individual wells. At any rate, my tap water pH varies during the year which necessitates my testing the pH once in a while. I adjust the pH to 5.5 to 6.5 by adding vinegar. I would not add an amount of vinegar suggested by someone on the forum because the chemical composition of your water may be different from that of a forum poster. Do as I do: add vinegar until you have reached the desired pH while measuring the pH.