I cannot help with the spray gun plan, but I would echo what Charina said. I use a home made version of the device in this link. It is: - 5 gallon bucket - drip lines made with smallest gauge standard drip line - hole drilled in the bucket to closely match outer diameter of drip line - inside the bucket, a coupler is attached to the end of the hose. This makes the drip line flare, so that pulling on it tightens it against the hole in the bucket. - attached to the coupler is a pill bottle that has holes drilled in it. It is filled with aquarium floss (like pillow filling), that acts as a filter. - On the watering end, I have micro valves to control the flow. Basically, they are little quarter-turn valves. I can try to dig them up online if you are interested. This works great for me, BUT I am only doing individual trees and a 12' blueberry raised bed. I would guess you would need many more buckets or larger vessels. Also, larger tubing probably more akin to the PVC ones in Charina's vid. Maybe you could calculate gallons needed per sq ft? It is pretty easy to just fill up the buckets and walk away. Plus, it is a slow watering so you have less run off. Let me know is my description is confusing... I can take pictures. Here is a link that might be useful: Drip Irrigation Bucket

You're welcome. I was as perplexed as you with the "lack of" detail regarding how and when the fuel solenoid became energized. There is only one other circumstance I can liken YOUR situation to (engine acts like it wants to run when cranking, but dies when key is released from START position). Back in the '40s, '50s, and early '60s,, some automotive engine OEMs employed a "ballast resistor" in the ignition coil circuit. This "ballast resistor" was placed in the ignition coil circuit so that the normal system voltage, was cut by 50% before reaching the ignition coil. This meant that on a vehicle with a 12 volt electrical system, only 6 volts was fed to the ignition coil from the RUN position of the ignition switch. 6 volt systems cut the power to 3 volts. The most compelling reason for having to "rig up" the coil feed this way was due to the woefully inadequate batteries, switches, wiring and other things electrical, of that time. Mainly, it was the "weak" automotive batteries of the time that had to be "compensated for". Here's why: All applications that utilize a battery to power a cranking motor, will experience a dramatic "system voltage drop" throughout the entire electrical system during cranking. The "drop" is caused by the very heavy "current draw", or LOAD, of the starter. The voltage drop causes the ignition coil "sparkability" to diminish significantly. Add to that, a good frosty morning where the battery is cold and even weaker. Factor in further that the starter itself has worn brushes and sticky bushings and you will have so much current draw.....you might not even get a spark out of the coil. Enter the wizards of yesteryear (uhh, maybe they were just engineers). They developed a method to assure good sparks from the coil during cranking. The idea was to use a 6 volt rated ignition coil on a 12 volt system instead of the usual 12 volt rated coil (3 volt coil for 6 volt systems). But how can you do that? Wouldn't a 6 volt coil "burn up" if you powered it with 12 volts? Yes, it would........but not if you feed the normal RUN position power through a "ballast resistor" to reduce 12V to 6V before it reaches the coil. HUH? The "key" to how this arrangement assured dependable starting was in adding a SEPARATE circuit that would "BYPASS" the resistor while the starter was engaged. Bypassing the resistor meant that the ignition coil would be fed a "higher voltage" (in spite of system voltage drop) when cranking, than in normal running mode. After the engine "caught on", the starter was disengaged and the bypass circuit disabled. The current feeding the coil once again flowed through the ballast resistor and the 6 volt rated coil was safe from burning up. It was somewhat common in those days to confront a vehicle that acted similar to this Scag. (It wants to start while cranking, but dies when let go of key.) Most of the time, that particular problem would be due to a failed ballast resistor. But those systems had some other shortcomings. Sometimes you would find a vehicle where the owner would complain of "it just cranks and cranks and cranks, but if you turn the key loose, it might start up at that moment. THIS condition was due to the BYPASS circuit being open for some reason. OEMs accomplished "BYPASS" in different ways. Some added an extra post to the ignition switch that would power the bypass circuit during cranking. Other OEMs added an extra wire to the starter solenoid that powered the bypass circuit during cranking. When something became open in the bypass circuit, the coil would only be fed the reduced voltage. Then you were right back to the situation before the ballast resistor systems came into use. Advances in battery, ignition, starters, and conductors in general, made the use of ballast resistor systems disappear in the 1970s (except for some industrial applications). Oh yeah, magneto ignition systems were unaffected by voltage drop in the vehicle electrical system because they are "self contained spark generators".

Yep -- that ghost is gone. Reason why: I am out at least $1500 for the motors if I do try to repair it, and if it really does need a new board, tack on $1000. Plus, I need heat, like, now. Going to be down in the 30's tomorrow night, and spending another 2 days seeing if that will fix it will cause "marital strife".

So I couldn't pass up this deal, 300 dollars for a stacked Kenmore FULL-SIZED washer and dryer unit. Unfortunately, depending on how you look at it, I will have to invest more time and money into this awesome buy. The only room with a 220 Volt plug is my office (220 Volts is required for operation of the set), and the washer's drain pipe, and water sources are in the kitchen about 15' through the office wall. My options are: Least likely: Mess with the wiring myself to accommodate 220 volt setup in kitchen. Less likely: Pay an electrician to do the above-mentioned for me. Somewhat unlikely: Give up on this deal and buy a two-part set, or settle for a smaller stacked set that operates at 110 volts. Most likely: Rig longer hoses using fixtures (clamps, etc.) and all that good stuff THROUGH the office/kitchen wall and run them horizontally about about a foot higher than the washer for about 10 feet, then drop them down gradually to their designated places a good 15 feet away from the back of their washer. The main question I had for this long-winded post is: Will this be too long of a length for the pump and faucets to handle? I've heard of pumps being able to work fine forcing water 8'+ vertically, but I'm not sure about 15' horizontally! This post was edited by not_always_confused on Thu, Aug 22, 13 at 23:27