Don't take this the wrong way, but I do think you are being too picky and anal retentive about the Suzuki. Starting on three pulls is fine by me, and I have owned more than a dozen Suzuki's, including about half which were Commercial Prolines such as the 22040 and 22043. Yours is an early Consumer model and probably only has a choke. Later models also had a primer button because the Mikuni carb often wouldn't flow enough fuel when cold. However, if you're starting with three pulls, you got no complaints. Also, You are not doing your engine any favors by running 32:1. Toro and Suzuki have recommended 50:1 since day one (mid 1980's) and oils were not as good 30 years ago. They also approved TCW-3 oils. Before you or other readers go nuts about the TCW-3 recommendation, keep in mind that this is a relatively low revving 2 stroke. It's governed at 3600 rpm and has a max speed of 3900 or 4000 rpm. This is not a high end string trimmer turning 10,000 rpm or a chain saw doing 12,000 rpm. Suzuki knew what they were doing. Lastly, I disagree with the previous poster about premium fuel. Usually I find him well informed and on point, but not in this case. Premium doesn't run "hotter" or "cooler", just has less tendency to knock and preignite, Main potential advantage to premium is that it is sometimes available without the 10% ethanol. And ethanol is bad news for the rubbers and elastomers in the carburator. Ethanol is also hygroscopic (attracts water) and the resulting moisture will attack aluminum and zamak carburetor parts. If the premium has ethanol, it's then no better or worse than regular gasoline. My recommendation would be to run ethanol free gas where possible, stay with recommended 50:1 oil premix, and use a high quality oil. A synthetic is great, but really not needed. As for Marvel oil. It won't hurt anything, but I'm not as sold on it as some people. If you start having a lot of trouble starting (8 to 10 pulls), then it may be time to look at the crankshaft seals. These are relatively cheap ($7 to $10) each, but a major job to fully disassemble and replace. BTW, if you want the Toro/Suzuki manual (492-0260), send me an email, and I'll bounce back with a PDF.

You may try the following on small area first: Wet clean the floor with mineral spirits / paint thinner. Make sure to ventilate and extinguish any pilot lights. Charcoal filtered face masks for workers are recommended. Dry white cotton rags work well, and you should see a visible yellow residue on the rags (oil residue). Wipe from the clean area into the contaminated area, refolding the rags to wipe with a clean face, and changing rags frequently. Let dry, and clean a second time with a good water based surfactant cleaner (like Bona / Basic cleaners). Repeat water cleaning until no color transfers to the white cotton rags. If the floor is tight with no open cracks filled with reservoirs of oil, you may have restored the original appearance and gloss. If this procedure doesn't remove all dulling film, you have greatly increased the likelihood of a recoat succeeding by removing most of the contaminant. If the floor is "open" with lots of cracks filled with contaminant, it may require a resand and refinish.

There are two forces at work here: first, the economy is sagging, so many retailers need to "move" their merchandise to bring in the new stuff they have already ordered. You cannot sell sofas covered in spring fabrics if they are still packed in plastic in the warehouse. Second, they count on you missing that payment date in 2011, because if you do, even by a single day, they end up with some outrageous annual APY (like, say 25%). And even if you remember and pay off before the due date, someone else will likely forget, so they may lose money on you as an individual customer, but they make money on the total promotion. If you can remember to pay, it is a fantastic way to borrow money for free.

Hi krycek, You may be very well correct for people who don't save, typically overspend, and aren't very concerned or serious about their money. These are the folks who *NEED* to listen to the beginners messages by the likes of Suze Ormond & Dave Ramsey. Paying the more expensive premium for a 30 FRM is a good thing for the "minimum payment, set it & forget it" crowd. I always advise folks that; The SAFEST and FINANCIALLY SUREST strategy is to accumulate a Mortgage Freedom Account (safe, liquid, compounding growth funds) that you can CHOOSE to use to wipe out the entire mortgage balance all at once when you are ready. Earning a safe compounding return that outperforms the tax-deductible costs of mortgage leverage is not difficult *IF* you match timeframes (i.e. don't try to match the costs of 30 year leverage with 6 month or 12 month deposit commitments. Long term matches long term, etc.) Of course, once you have reached this point, you also have the power & discretion to safely "let the mortgage balance ride" with absolutely no risk (since you can stroke a check to wipe it out at will) while you continue to earn more in compounding growth than you pay in tax-deductible interest (not to mention the insurance premium savings you get when you have plenty of cash & can take larger deductibles.) A 5 yr ARM is going for 2.75% currently (no buydown points.) A 30 FRM is going for 3.875% currently (no buydown points.) That's a 40% cost PREMIUM for anyone taking a 30 FRM. If you did nothing but took the savings and applied it to principal (the least effective strategy... but still,) *AND the interest rate market went "limit up" (meaning it adjusted as high as legally allowed each year after the fixed period,) you would STILL pay less with the 5 yr ARM than the 30 FRM for at least 7-8 years. If the interest rate markets do *ANYTHING* milder than the absolute catastrophic worst... you save with the 5 yr ARM deeper, and longer... allowing you to apply that savings to debt elimination and safe, liquid savings the entire time. For *MOST* of my clients, I can design a plan that will allow them to retire all their debt (consumer *AND* mortgage) in 9-10 years, even if they are paying the premium on a 30 FRM. If we go with the 5 yr ARM savings instead, we can often retire all debts in 5-7 years. (OH... and that is WITHOUT reducing their lifestyle budgets... no distasteful "belt cinching" required, assuming responsible folks in the first place.) IMPORTANT NOTE: FannieMae bond data (in their SEC reports) whow that 19 out of every 20 mortgages are paid off due to refi or re-sale by just UNDER the 7th year. Since the 5 yr ARM (in a WORST CASE situation) is better for 7-8 years, THAT MEANS that 95% of the people who pay a premium for the 30 FRM are flushing that extra money down the toilet... all because of emotional fear, or lack of understanding. DISCLAIMER: although I do provide this for my clients... I also teach the principles in various posts & responses here for everyone, for free. Those who "get it" either apply it for themselves, or they contact me... and I love it just as much when folks tell me of their successes from reading my works as I do when they hire our firm. The better you understand the realities of money, interest rates, protective periods, protective caps, and the realities of the bonds markets (which tell us indisputably how frequently loans turn over,) the better you can get out of debt, and into financial freedom. Cheers, Dave Donhoff Leverage Planner