If you think you’ve been exposed to asbestos, here’s what you should do. https://www.heatingair.org/ Consult a doctor. Talk to your doctor if you think you’ve been exposed to asbestos. They can help you determine your risk of developing an asbestos-related disease. “The good news is that one-off, limited exposure to asbestos is typically harmless short and long term. Most of the people who develop asbestos-related ilnesses were exposed to the material on a regular basis. These diseases usually take a long time to develop. Most people don’t have symptoms until 10 to 40 years after exposure, the National Cancer Institute says. If your doctor knows that you’ve been exposed to asbestos, they may monitor you for symptoms. If symptoms occur, get a diagnosis The signs of asbestos-related diseases can be similar to other health conditions. People with these diseases may have shortness of breath, chest pain and a chronic cough. Some asbestos-related diseases can also make you cough up blood or lose weight without trying to. To diagnose diseases associated with asbestos, doctors may use a variety of lung tests. Imaging tests, including chest X-rays or computerized tomography (CT) scans, can help your doctor spot changes in your lungs. Your doctor may also ask you to blow big breaths into a machine to see how well your lungs are working.

I would put down cement board, then install the tile over that--but be sure you can find a transition strip that will allow you that much of an elevation difference between rooms-since it sounds like there are several layers already.

I recall that there is a particular type of flooring that should NOT go under the cabs - floating floor installations? I believe it has to do with the need for the planks to move. The best idea, of course, is to read the directions that come with your particular flooring. You can always use plywood the same thickness as your floor under your cabs and then bring the rest of the floor up to the edges of the cabs. The spaces under the 'fridge, stove, and dishwasher should be finished to the wall. The theory there is that those appliances will be replaced before you replace your flooring. Originally our house had 1971 vinyl tile (probably asbestos) in the entire house. We put down new sheet vinyl, maybe twice, and eventually engineered hardwood. As predicted, dealing with the dishwasher got to be a nightmare as it was then lower than the current floor. The counters were also a little low, but I kinda liked that. While doing the reno, it was fun to see all the flooring of years past and hearing ourselves say, "Oh, I'd forgotten about that floor! When did we do that?" It's nice to now have the flooring be all at one height, that being the same height as the base of the cabinets. I'm also very much enamored of our current bamboo flooring :-)

OP: If you are still dealing with this issue - please look again at my original post. You need to understand if this is a system wide issue. If it is system wide, meaning that the plumbing is at the end of its life, you need to re-plumb and the only practical way of doing that is through the attic and side walls. Your flat roof will make this much more difficult. The good news is you can do it with PEX and fish some of the lines into place. You can consider pipe lining -- but if you have copper pipe that has reached end of life - I'd question how long of a fix that would be. It would be something to ask about if you go that direction. Copper plumbing has a lifespan of 50-70 years so 40 years is a little short if it was properly installed unless it was thinwall copper. Ground chemistry, water chemistry, even electrical currents, etc can shorten the lifespan. You may be able to see what type of copper -- K, L or M -- was installed if you can find a length of expose pipe with the printing on it. If it's type M - that's the thinnest type and I'd say you are at the end of life.