Personally I'd say yes, having spent 2 months hunting for salvaged boards and winding up with some that are a shade too narrow for my 1922 floors. It's very difficult to match the older widths, so if this is a perfect match, go for it. It will be VASTLY easier to weave them in seamlessly with the older ones.

Price sounds very reasonable to me, too, especially if that's square foot, not linear foot. For comparison, I ultimately had to have one 6-foot T&G board routed specially to match a spot where I just couldn't fudge it, and that single board + labor cost me almost $60.

Good luck!

Speaking of weaving them in, can a novice DIYer do this? Our boards in the next room are almost all 12' boards. How on earth do I do this?

I did it, which leads me to say that anyone can do it (!), but it's not a simple task. You'll need a sharp wood chisel and a power drill OR a circular saw, flooring nails & hammer OR a flooring nailgun, and lots of patience. It's a nervy process of chiseling/sawing out old boards without breaking off the tongues or grooves of their neighbors. Aesthetically, the trick is to cut back some of the old boards at random intervals so that your added boards don't all start flush to one another.
This is a shot of how we weaved some new pine into older pine in the attic to replace some plywood the previous owners had used under carpeting in the dormer (new flooring is to the left under the windows):

Here is a link that might be useful: diy floor repair

Excellent idea. :)

Not a bad price for good wood. Just make sure that at least 90% of it has at least 50% of the 1/4" top surface present. Any less than that and the flooring has received many sandings and may not be worth the effort.

After you get it all in then come back and ask how to make your first sanding of reclaimed flooring.

glennsfc-

I never even thought of that- that is so important!!

I will post a pic after I (assumably) bring the flooring home. I will need to learn about how to tie it in....

personally, I'd say no. We did it once and it was almost a big problem. the old wood had been sanded a couple of times in the past, so when we reinstalled it, there were HUGE differences in the thickness of it....requiring a VERY heavy and deep sanding. the sanding had to be so severe the floor can never be sanded again. In some places, it had to be sanded down nearly to the nail heads in order to make it appear even. I am glad we sold that house....the floor was never satisifactory. We got it really cheap.....only $150 for 600 sq ft from a home owner who wanted something different on their floors.

You will need to clean the tongues before installing and scrape the face edges to remove any old finishes that may have crept between the boards. Very sharp paint scrapers work well or cabinet scrapers. Tedious, but can be done and will result in an installable reclaimed product.

You don't need all of the t & g intact, so if some is missing here and there it should be no big problem.

I wasn't able to see the florring today, due to a "series of unfortunate events"...

However, it seems as thought this guy is going to have some good stuff, based on my conversations with him today. He has both white and red oak to choose from, and alot of it. He says he can also get his hands on just about any other salvage type "product".

Question: how do I know if what I currently have is white or red oak??

I can tell at a glance what you have. However, look for boards that have both blonde (sapwood) and tan or brown (heartwood) in the same piece. If you have several split color boards, chances are that what you have is white oak.

That is a good place to start. Also, search the web for pictures of red oak and white oak and see what resembles the flooring you have.

For "old flooring," it's a good deal...even if you need to stain and work with it a bit. Go for it!

Here's a web site that explains how to differentiate between red oak and white oak.

Here is a link that might be useful: Red or white oak??

So I bought the flooring today. $288 for 180 SF. It is in fantastic condition. Never been sanded. All the nails were very carefully removed, and only a little bit of the tongues were damaged on a few pieces. It was just pulled up, so there is no issue with warping or anything like that.

The boards are a dead-on match to what I have. I am really happy with the purchase. We will be storing the boards in our dining room for a few months until we are able to start the remodel of the kitchen, at which time I will be back to ask everyone about tips on toeing in and such.

Thanks for the help!