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removal of ceramic tile

15 years ago

2 questions: we have ceramic tile over what used to be a concrete surfaced porch, that was taken in. The existing tile set w/thinset is now "equal height with the kitchen floor. Planning to replace the tile and need help on deciding best way to remove tile.

1> If we remove the tile and there is thinset remaining, could we just put hardyboard over the concrete and then lay ceramic tile over this (I have the "space" to have hardyboard and tile and be equal to other flooring.

2 Has anyone ever used the self-leveling product under flooring. How difficult is it to use, how expensive, thoughts please. Thanks

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Comments (3)

bill_vincent
15 years ago
1) no you can't. There's not a single cement board manufacturer who will warranty their product thinsetted to slab. The slab would have to be absolutely perfect to get a good bond with no voids, and there's no such thing.

2) That's a much better option, but it's not real cheap.

3) I'm going to add a number 3-- and that's the possibility of once you remove all the tile (every last chip), take a hammer and chisel (or electric chipping hammer) and take down all the high spots where the old thinset purged up between the tiles. Once you've got the high spots, (this is assuming the thinset is adhered well) flat trowel some new thinset over it to flatten it all out. Much cheaper than the SLC, and would work just as well in giving you a surface you can work with. If you need to RAISE the surface, however, the SLC is your best bet.
yaya62
Original Author
15 years ago
I did not think I would thinset the hardyboard. Thought I could maybe attach it to the concrete with concrete nails. Is this a no-no or stupid unworkable idea.
The other thought is going back to my original thought of just putting the new tile on top of the old.
We are doing a total remake of kitchen and gathering room and want to do it the easiest (but best) way. I don't want to do inferior work that might detract from the house. What are you thoughts on which option is the best.
thanks
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Define "easy". Chances are good if it was done properly there will be an additional layer of plywood on top of the subfloor to give the floor additional rigidity. If that's the case you can usually pry up that layer with the tile stuck to it, assuming it was nailed and not also glued down. You can then replace that layer and put new tile over it. That's relatively easy. If your tile is laid on a "mud job", a 1-2" thick mortar bed, that might or might not nave an additional layer of underlayment you can pry up, and might or might not have been put down over a separation barrier (typically roofing felt in older work). If there is a felt layer you can usually break up the tile and mortar with a sledge hammer, wrecking bar, or other tools of destruction and get it out reasonably easily (but working up a sweat in the process). If its firmly stuck to the subfloor things quickly become more difficult. Removing and replacing the subfloor turns into a pretty good day's work, but doesn't take a whole lot of skill or finesse, so depending on your scale may meet your criterion of easy. Any of the above is easier than trying to pry the tile up off the substrate in a way that you can apply new tile or other flooring over it. And, as noted above, you can tile over existing tile if it's in good shape and firmly attached.
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Thanks, Millworkman. We live in Oklahoma so I will call the local stone yard to see what thickness the quartzite is. I think I saw 2 cm and 3 cm slabs the last time I visited a stone yard. I got lucky, and found quartzite and marble remnants that will work for my bathroom cabinets. The marble will cost me $25.00 per sf plus $75.00 for the cut outs. The quartzite will cost $40.00 per sf. What a deal! Celadon, we had an L shaped cabinet in there that was built in the 90s by a local guy. That same cabinet guy built us a new cabinet that is not L shaped. We had him build a new cabinet, but unfortunately, he did not look under the cabinet to see where the plumbing lines came out of the concrete. He brought the cabinet, and I noticed that the plumbing lines would come up about 1.5" in front of where the new cabinet will be. He took it back to his shop to fix it. He brought it back when I wasn't home, and my husband paid him. I noticed later that he did not fix the problem. I called him, and he had moved to Florida. He said he didn't know how to fix it. So, I took off the finished side panel, and bought oak plywood, stained it, and attached it to the cabinet side. Now, the cabinet is 25" deep.
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bill_vincent
15 years ago
Thought I could maybe attach it to the concrete with concrete nails.

Then you're guaranteed to have voids, which is a guarantee of tile failure.

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