That didn't work. I even tripped the circuit breaker, hoping maybe that would reset things, and now none of the burners self-ignite! The oven light works and seems to heat up (the "heating" light goes on, anyway), so I know that there is electrical power to the range. I guess it's time to call for service. I can't believe that the igniters really would die after a month!

I have a Superior fireplace, worked OK last season. Now Pilot will light and stay lit but as soon as I turn control to burner settings the pilot goes out. Air sprayed the pilot assembly, tried wall switch. Any suggestions. Model is D500CMN millivolt.

It ought to be pretty near impossible for gas to come out of the main burner when the pilot isn't lit, so I'd suppose you are mistaken. I's start with your comment that it "seems" like you are getting gas from the main burner. What is it that you are actually observing? To test your theory, I'd remove the main burner and soap out the main burner orifice to find out if gas is actually coming out. If you are simply hearing a hissing noise, it's probably just gas coming from the pilot light. You could also soap out the pilot burner to verify that. By the "pilot light knob" I'm supposing that you are talking about the gas valve control knob, which you presumably have turned to the pilot position and are then pushing in. That permits gas to flow to the pilot burner only, and often a hissing noise can be heard coming from the pilot burner. I'm guessing that you are mistaking gas coming from the pilot burner for gas coming from the main burner. I suppose the fireplace could be screwed up badly enough to cause the problem you describe, but someone would have to have plumbed the pilot burner gas into the main burner instead of the pilot burner.

When was the last time it actually fired? If the gas line was open, you will have air, but you said you smelled gas. You could have a rusty pilot orifice too. On that heater, if you are getting spark and smell gas, the mechanics of the safety loop circuit are working fine or you would not get a spark. You can loosen the pilot tube from the valve and then turn the heater on until you hear the valve click. Gas should come out of the 1/4" hole. If it does, that portion is ok. Put it back and tighten. Fire it back up and listen for gas down in the pilot area. DO NOT PUT YOUR HEAD THERE AND IF YOU HEAR THE SPARK STOP, MOVE OUT OF THE WAY QUICKLY! If it continues to spark AND you smell gas, you have a further diagnosis to do. If you have gas at the pilot and spark, you have to have flame unless the spark gap is way out of whack. If you have spark and no gas, it is a plugged burner, bad ignition module or bad valve. Those tests need run. For the valve to be bad, you would need to have flame at the pilot and hear a click at the valve with no ignition. that would still not narrow it down w/o tests. Let's assume spark and no gas. Put a test lead on the valve ground and the PV terminal on the gray ignition module with the heater on. No voltage (24) there means a bad module. Let's assume, spark, gas and no flame. That would be a pilot issue. Let's assume, spark w/flame and no ignition. You need to confirm where the 24volts stop. It could also be aloose ground. You can put a test lead on the valve ground and then put it to the mv terminal on the gray ignition module. Voltage there (24)indicates the module is good. Put the lead down to the mv terminal on the valve. Voltage there (24)and no main valve operation means your valve is toast.