From: http://suite101.com/article/how-to-increase-your-amaryllis-bulb-supply-a101817 Twin Cuttage Method of Dividing Amaryllis Another method of amaryllis reproduction is twin scale cuttage. Cuttage should be done after the bulbs have finished blooming and grown a few months A bulb is sliced vertically in 4 or more pieces, Larger pieces will produce a bloom sooner. Apply a fungicide powder to the pieces. Dust with rooting hormone, if desired Plant the slices in vermiculite or a mixture of peat and sand. Leave about half of the slice above the soil line. Keep moist and warm. In about eight weeks a small bulb, followed by leaves should appear. Depending on the climate, bulbs should bloom in two to three years.

Thanks for the posts. Yes, I was thinking that some sort of secondary filter, maybe a really open foam or some sort of deal was made to go on there. Especially after it says that on the sticker about cleaning the filter. Nothing according to KA. I've cleaned what I can, but not got into the fan blades or if there is anything slung inside the housing. There are no instructions in the manual about how to get in and clean it. By my looking I wondered about taking the screws out of the side and that bracket piece in the first picture, but then I'm unsure if the whole motor assembly would try to drop out! Flow wise I was just wondering if there was something like those foam filters they have for cars. Really an open type foam with large holes in it. Flows with little restriction, but would make the grease stay on it rather than go in the blower. Would probably have to clean the filters often as I do the baffles, but no one seems to know of any or any old part numbers etc. for older lines or alternate lines so far. Would have loved to have a roof top blower or perhaps a better grade vent, but just did not have the funds to do it. Saw blowers for about $1000 and then would have to buy the stainless vent housing, pipe etc. etc. Looked way over my budget. Got this one on clearance as they had a new model coming out. Don't remember what I paid, but seems like it was right at $900-1000 all done. Thanks for the posts. I'm going to try KA tech again and see if they have any suggestions (beyond pay a service person to come out and deal with it) on how the fans are supposed to be cleaned and some sort of secondary grease retainer. Thanks again for the posts. Any other info or suggestions still welcome!

The photos are great. Thanks much. I've been surfing and have found quite a few sites with grab bars that also look good. Here are a few sites: http://www.greatgrabz.com/grab-bars http://www.pontegiuliousa.com/bagnosicuro/grab-bar-collections.html https://www.plumbingsupply.com/luxury-grab-bars.html And here is the cornershelf/grab bar I am contemplating. Moen makes a much cheaper version, but it has a plastic insert, and I want something that will be more permanent. http://www.wrightstuff.biz/cornershelf.html Here is one take on which type to install: "Never anchor a grab bar into drywall , it will not hold and you could be seriously injured. How to properly install a grab bar is to screw it into the wall studs or to blocking in your walls. If your walls don't have blocking, add it by nailing a piece of plywood into the studs. The plywood should be þ inches thick and 6 to 12 inches wide. A grab bar should have 1-ý" of clearance from the wall. Wall mounted grab bars come in several lengths. Deciding which length to install depends on how the grab bar will be used. For example, if you're putting a main grab bar on the side wall of a bathroom tub enclosure a grab bar at least 24 inches long is best. If you're adding a second grab bar for support on the shower head wall, it should be at least 12 inches long. Horizontal grab bars offer better leverage when you are trying to get out of a bathtub or up and down from a toilet, but a grab bar placed at a 45 degree angle to the toilet or bathtub's rim is better when trying to accommodate people of different heights. Angling your grab bar has an additional advantage. A 24 inch bar installed at a 45 degree angle will exactly span wall studs spaced 16 inches apart, and you can screw into the studs on each end for maximum support. Horizontal grab bars should be located 33 to 36 inches above the finished floor around toilets, and 33 to 36 inches above the floor of the bathtub (7 to 11 inches above the rim) and close enough to the shower head wall to support you when adjusting water temperature."

I was just told by a man at Lowe's that Price Pfister doesn't make Satin Nickel, but I just ordered 5 faucets off Ebay last week in that finish. Now I need to add Roman Tub & 3 handhelds to the list. Problem is, I need these quick, so I can't go the Ebay route, I have to use Lowe's. Can someone please let me know if what the Lowe's man said is true, and whether or not Satin Nickel and Brushed Nickel are really the same finish? Even though these are bath faucets, I'm posting here because I hoped someone might know the answer to this after purchasing a kitchen faucet. Thanks!