So the builder owns the lot and the house until it's all done, and the house is a standard design with a "standard spec" that the builder typically builds? I suspect you're asking for things they don't typically offer. They have a business model where they know with a high degree of certainty how each project will go. This can work well when people stay within the limits and expectations are clear. If it's not an option they already have priced, it takes time to provide a number they have confidence in and they may be gauging your interest with the broad and general pricing before going to their suppliers and subcontractors (and it could be they have to find new ones). Or they'd rather just nudge you back toward something they know well, and they are throwing a big "why not" number at it. If you haven't done so, it may help to compile all of your specific requests and before asking for prices, sit down with the builder and get a good idea of their interest and capabilities for each item. They may be tiring of all of the requests. If you're seeking customization beyond what is typically offered by this builder, you might want to look elsewhere. Can you be happy with the "standard spec" and lack of transparency? You have the one builder to work with so there's no advantage for him to be transparent, except to earn goodwill. He doesn't have to give you any breakdown, or his actual costs, or agree to deviate from his standard. You've indicated your commitment with a deposit. If you're unable to negotiate, your alternative is to walk and forfeit your lot deposit. Do you get the sense there would be another buyer waiting to jump on this lot, or has the lot been sitting for a while? This could make difference in how accomodating the builder will be. In any event, you're right that now--before you sign and put a BIG deposit--is the time to negotiate the nature and cost of your selections (choices without cost implications such as colors from a standard palette could be made later, as long as you make them by the time the builder needs them--just verify that the tier/family/range of choices is referenced in the contract). And don't change a thing later. Have someone review the contract before you sign, if not a lawyer at least run it by someone who's been through this type of process before (a friend, or even someone who's already in one of this builder's houses). If something is omitted or not clearly described in the contract it might not be due to malice but it's likely you'll have expectations that differ from the builder's. There was a recent thread concerning access to the construction site--you'll want to read up on that, if you're the prospective buyer of the finished house, and not the owner as you would be if you owned the land and financed the construction. Good luck. Everything in writing!

Is this a stacked ledgestone that you are doing? You might be able to get away with the adhesive but I think you will likely end up with some gaps that the mortar would cover (if used) but will be left exposed if you are going with the adhesive. The adhesive I typically use for various projects is PL Premium tubes and while it would work to hold it in place, I think you will likely experience some "slide" factor and the stones will not stay in place where you put them but will have a tendency to slide down (you can partially remedy this by putting in a blocker (2x4) for your starter course that you can remove later). This will likely only work for ledgestone or other tight fit looks. If you are doing anything that has grout lines, the adhesive will leave those grout lines exposed and it will look really "faux". I would be concerned that if the drywall got wet the paper could peel away or might just do so with the weight of the stones (though fake they are still somewhat heavy). You may very well end up with falling stones.... I would suggest renting a scaffold and going the recommended method of applying felt paper and the mesh and mortar (you can likely skip the scratch coat and do one coat while buttering the stones), ensuring you hit studs while nailing the mesh in (unless you're nailing onto plywood).

I am in the process of having a similiar type of veneer installed on a new addition to the house. The stone is supposed to be delivered today. My local supplier had samples from this company. http://www.rollrock.com/

The scratches will weather and probably be less evident over time. Stones I've seen delivered to work sites are piled into crates. These are both manmade and natural stones. I never really went up to these houses afterwards to check out stone condition. Ron