This sounds very weird to me. I've frequently gotten similar solicitations. But usually, there is some nearly accurate fact written into it. For instance, they'll list the name of my original mortgage company (the mortgage was sold twice and later refinanced) and original loan amount (not the same as the loan amount for the refinanced loan.) It's easy for them to get this info as it's all public record. All mortgages are recorded in the county clerks office (in NJ.) I have never received solicitations where information was made-up. I can't see what advantage there would be to making up info (they might as well not put ANY identifying info.) And why would they spend so much money on certified mail that contained made-up info? It just sounds too weird. I wonder if these people are running some kind of scam? Although what it would be, I don't know. You might want to just call them and find out where they obtained their info. It wouldn't hurt, after all, they're not going to be able to talk you into buying anything, right? If you feel like spending the time, you could also check with the BBB and the county prosecutors office to see if there have been any complaints against them. You could also get your credit reports and check with the county clerk's office (or wherever mortrgages are recorded) and make sure that there are no open mortgages against your property.

I'd really suggest NOT trying to personally "make the call" of when the rates are 'at their best.' That's an exercise in futility, and even the best & brightest traders who make their living with real money on the line do not do that. INSTEAD; take your time and choose a target rate that WILL work for you. One that you won't kill yourself if you lose out on getting, and yet you'll accept as sufficient even if it gets locked and closed yet rates go further down. Remember though, pick a rate too low and if the market doesn't get there you then ride the wave from there. (Personally I wouldn't be overly worried though... rates are unlikely to rise significantly for many many years.) BOTTOM LINE; Pick your target, get your credit file pre-completed, and and set the "target rate lock order" with a good loan officer you know and trust. Then, go live your life and wipe the stress out of it. Have an awesome, easy, lazy summer! Dave Donhoff Leverage Planner

Only YOU know how you MAY use your credit cards, and to what extent. Your question is how to improve your credit score. With a credit line of (about) $50,000, you can have $10,000 debt (outstanding balance owed on your credit card), and be at the 20% mark. If your credit line is at $30,000, you have max of $6,000 to be in debt (CHARGED/OWED/OUTSTANDING) on your credit card, and still be at the 20% "DEBT TO AVAILABLE CREDIT RATIO". IF your AVERAGE is 'about or less than' $300.00-$500.00 outstanding balance (debt), but 'MAYBE MORE DEPENDING'... ...well, it's that "maybe, depending" that you need to account for. I've given you the details/formulas/TOOLS to do the math. Only YOU know what you may or may not charge in future, so you must take a realistic look/approach to that. (Be honest with yourself - TOTALLY HONEST!) The way things are going recently? I would stive for no more than 15% or even 10% 'DEBT to avail credit'. (Or less...less is always better) Please come back - let us know what you decided to do to get HIGHER CREDIT SCORES. BTW - WILL take a couple or FEW months to reflect on your credit report IF you decide to request lower credit line. So, I guess that's why 'they say' to start planning "well in advance". (YUP! Amongst everything else important, I have some clean-up to do myself!)

Hi MoAtWork, You have a car with only one forward speed, I assume - if you are so slow? I sometimes use fully secured line of credit using equity investments as collateral. I don't worry about paying on principal that much and the bank doesn't worry if I don't. As I use the funds generated to buy more investments, making the interest deductible, that is a help. I can make payments on pricipal at any time and in whatever amount that I choose. Which I do, as it suits me and have money on hand. For people who, having used such a loan at lower interest rate to reduce interest rate on auto or credit card debts, might be tempted to go out and rack up new credit card debt in significant amounts, refinancing to pay off the current credit card (read "debt" card) debt is usually a poor idea. Just gets you deeper into debt - and now you're paying on those newly created credit cards' debts at much higher interest rates, again. Many borrow to buy a car but pay cash for investment programs. Up here in Canada I call that an unwise move. If I borrow to buy a car, unless I use it for business (not including driving back and forth to my regular place of employment) the interest is not deductible. If I pay cash for the car and borrow to invest, that makes the amount of interest paid deductible. I've suggested to some clients on occasion that they liquidate their investments, use the proceeds to pay off their car loan, then borrow again to buy back the investments. I figure that deductible interest beats non-deductible interest (at the same, or even comparable rates) every time. I bought a 1990 Dodge Colt, 1.5 litre engine, standard tranny, in summer 1997, with 138,000 km. (something over 85,000 mi.) on it, paying about $2,700. I've had to put some repairs on it in the more than 6 years that I've owned it - not an inordinate amount, in my opinion. During a recent trip from London, Ontario to Edmonton, Alberta via Regina, Saskatchewan, we doubled that amount of mileage on the odometer. It has something over 282,000 km. on it now (over 175,000 mi.) During the trip, it sat outside overnight (no block heater) when temperature in the early morning was -39 degrees (considering wind chill, something like -50 degrees). Thick oil meant that it turned over very slowly in the morning - but it fired in about 5 seconds. Oil light stayed on, so I shut it down after about 5 seconds. Let it sit for about 10 seconds, started it again, ran it for about 6 seconds, oil light still on, so shut it down again. After about four such starts, engine was turning over about usual speed while starting. Started over a dozen times before the oil light went out. It's a fuel-injected gas engine - which I thinks helps the starting in extreme cold like that. When I ask new car salespeople if they can get me about 40,000 miles for about $4,000. - 5,000. - they tell me to get lost. Driving the 5,000 mile or so with a leaky gas tank that could be filled only slightly under half full, my son complained about buying gas about 50 times. I told him that if that was the most major problem that he had - he was laughing, for he had very little to worry about. I'd bought a rusty tank for $75. here, but didn't want to install it, as it was so rusty. Garage man said some recyclers bring them in from AB or AZ (dry climate) for something like $110., he thought - but on investigation it turned out to be over $300. So, while I was in Alberta, I bought a tank for $50. and hauled it in the back seat for about 2,200 miles. Took the car to the garage to have the tank installed, this afternoon. Recently received an offer from Citibank to lend me up to $3,500. (possibly more). When I called to ask them what rate of interest they'd charge, the respondent said it depended on the amount that I borrow, but the full $3,500. would cost me ... 26% per year. I told her that I just received a report from my bank on my fully secured line of credit, which is unused at the moment - at offered rate of 4.5%. So I thought that I'd not be taking them up on their offer, any time soon. Ain't life fun? Especially when one's retired, with three or four pensions and enjoying good health. Nice not to have to go out and scrape ice off of the windshield in the dark before going to work. When I bought med insurance for travel through U.S., cost was $28. as I had no pre-existing medical conditions - would have been $52. had I had some. Enjoy your winter, all. ole joyful