A tall fescue lawn in a northern California winter is going to look a bit bedraggled, and hardly grow much. The thinning of the grass is probably due to lack of sufficient irrigation suitable for best growth in the hotter months, in combination with insufficient top soil with organic content added before you sodded it, and not fertilizing often enough to encourage better health and growth of grass. How many inches of topsoil did you add before rototilling, and how often and which months do you fertilize, and what is the N-P-K ratio of the fertilizer you are using? As to whether 20 minutes of spray irrigation is sufficient for a lawn in northern California conditions, especially if applied 4 times a week on a flat site, if anything this is overwatering, even with heavy root competition from the redwoods and oaks across the fence. It looks to me that you need to build up soil fertility in both the lawn, and particularly for the citrus tree, which shows signs of nitrogen deficiency in particular, and is probably also not getting water in summer sufficient to get rooting deeper. Just adding a mulch with chicken manure in it, or mushroom compost or similar as a 4 inch mulch, ought to help the citrus tremendously. I'd also suggest adding some time release fertilizer such as osmocote and work into the soil in March, for longer term/slow release of nutrients, and check with a soil auger how deep your irrigation is penetrating with the irrigation you are giving it. The lawn can also be top dressed with a light screened mulch after having it aerated with a core type aerator, and the top dressing raked in to help fill the holes, but it might be better to simply use a sod cutter to skim it all off, add a healthy 6 inches of organic compost to the lawn area, and resod. Lawns here typically benefit from several fertilizing periods, at least once in mid spring and again in summer and early fall, or refer to the web site referred to previously for recommendations. You might also consider using a mulching lawn mower that chops up the grass blades so that they return to the soil, and preserve the nitrogen that is otherwise thrown away with each clipping. As to Ink's complaint about "cliche" eyebrow plantings around the edge of the lawn, I don't think you are really looking at other solutions if you mean to keep the existing lawn size and layout, but I do second Ink's opinion that the narrowness of the planting areas against the fence is rather dull and static. Planting of vines to cover the fence, and widening the borders to allow at least some layering of shrubs and herbaceous plantings is entirely possible if borders were widened to minimum 4 to 8 feet wide if you can give up some lawn space. The proximity of those large redwoods and oaks across your fence is definitely tapping into the irrigation you are supplying. The vigor of the trees, and even some of the plants in your own backyard indicates to me that yours isn't so much a soil fertility problem, as it is poorly timed fertilizing and no ongoing attempts to increase organic content of your clay soils via mulching with compost, as well as not checking to see if your irrigation schedule is adequately wetting the soil to sufficient depth to encourage better growth and plant health under drought/heat stress of summer. Having dealt with many California gardens under or adjacent to redwoods and live oaks, the soil ph is unlikely to be the problem, as I am willing to bet your soil is only mildly acidic or even close to neutral. We just don't have moist enough conditions year round to create acidic soils from dropped leaves in a suburban garden setting. The problem is the root competition of water, and any plantings you add will greatly benefit from adding tons of organic component, mulching with compost on a yearly basis, selecting plants that tolerate root competition with redwood tree roots, shade and constant debris, and closely monitoring your irrigation cycles to see that the plants are getting what they need. Beyond a soils test and a landscape design, you need some help from a good horticulturist who can advise you what you are doing wrong/right in your particular circumstances. I'd also make darn sure the natives you have on your plans are compatible with redwood tree competition, as well as potential overspray from the lawn irrigation. Fertilizing more frequently for plantings below/adjacent redwoods is extremely helpful, and if you prefer the organic route, stick with a good organic mulch that has some manure in it, and reapply a couple of inches every year.

I have been struggling for 4 or 5 years to find something to put in this bed that would bring some color! I don't know why I haven't thought of camellias before! My MIL has several blooming around her place which is on our property. She is now in a nursing home, bless her heart and they are blooming up a storm. Ok, which ones? Sasanquas? It is a huge bed as you can see but it needs to be fuller, right? LOL. Heh, heh...I can definitely handle "too many". Thanks! Nana

Thanks for the feedback. I found the Bradington Young sofa I wanted at local furniture store and started shopping online. These internet sites beat my local store by $800.00..to me that is lots of money. My last couch was an impulse buy and I am paying dearly, after four years it has fallen apart. I am taking my time with this purchase and trying to be better informed. I am also looking at Smith Bros., as I have found a couple of their sofa's at local furniture store and loved them. I haven't really found anyone on the internet that carries Smith Bros., but their price is not bad in my local store. They appear to make a good product. I have picked up some really good tips from the garden web blog. Now I don't feel quiet like the old lady furniture shopping and not knowing the correct questions to ask.

I have never seen furniture by Universal mentioned on this site. Maybe it is not a quality company by industry standards, but my bedroom , which I've had about 5 years, as well as my new Universal "Hollywood" dining set are beautiful and not as expensive as other brands I've considered. My living room coffee table and end tables are also by Universal. My daughter buys only Thomasville, which is 2 or 3 times more expensive, but I think my furniture looks as good or better and seems to be holding up just as well. I can't afford high end brands, but even if I could, I probably would still have selected the Universal furniture I have. My sofa and chair are Broyhill, and I love them as well.