Yelp is an excellent choice. You'll find our store and many others. I think however you're asking for a little too much for your budget. A good wood bed alone is easily over $1000, and $1200 is where you'll start to see things you like, and you won't get much choice until you hit $1500. Wood slides should be eliminated as a consideration. It is not a benefit, and actually creates stress on the drawer box. If you have or plan to have kids in your life at some point, I consider these drawer types to be a safety hazard for kids (jammed fingers) due to the friction, and we refuse to sell kids furniture with this construction, and avoid it even for adult furniture. Dust panel is meaningless. If dust is going to accumulate behind the drawers, you now have many more places to clean it out. I believe this is a throwback to the days when moths and mice really did get inside of furniture and wreak havoc, and a dust panel was an added protection barrier. All it does is add weight and cost. Again not a basis for consideration or elimination of a piece of furniture. Dovetail drawers are found on fine high-end furniture (more than you want to spend) and cheap imports trying to appeal to people looking for a bargain. Dovetail is a good idea for drawers with wood slides, but not a requirement; my set has wood slides but no dovetails and has held up fine. Solid wood for the entire cabinet is not always attractive. Most people don't realize that "solid wood" by DEFINITION is strips of solid wood glued together. Tops and sides look fine this way, drawer fronts can look a little goofy, especially if the strips don't line up. And then there is seasonal expansion and contraction, especially in Chicago. I generally prefer veneer fronts. Front corners should be solid wood, and back corners too if the design allows it. Tops I prefer solid wood, although my set is veneered (we liked the design of the set). Sides can be veneered. So in short solid wood adds cost and gives little benefit in terms of useful life. Kincaid and Brownstreet I can't comment on. Basset is Chinese "good enough" product, in this economy I'd try find a maker who keeps the dollars closer to home. I'll repeat again that you're asking for a lot, and many of your build criteria were based on the needs of consumers in the 1800's, when buying furniture was very different. Dust and vermin infestation were real issues. Furniture had to last forever (or at least several generations) because people didn't have the money to replace it. It had to be made a certain way because today's machinery hadn't been invented yet. Here's an analogy - a person looking for a two story house INSISTS that it has a laundry chute and won't consider a house without one. Sounds fine, but that person won't see any homes with a second floor laundry, which is preferable. So keep an open mind. Furniture has three characteristics - quality, appearance, and price. You need to balance these or you will have few or no choices even after spending a lot of time looking and researching. A good line to look at is AP furniture in Canada. The quality is very good - quality being defined as its made well and doesn't fall apart. Made in Quebec. They have the clean style you like, you can pick your finish color and the price will be close to your budget. There is a dealer in the near north burbs who has a piece or two on display so you can see the quality of construction. You can find this dealer on yelp.com (wink/nod). Good luck in your search, and please keep us posted!

I am searching for duralee Bailey & griffin Wenchow black/green fabric. This is a discontinued fabric. I need enough fabric to reupholster 2 high back wing chairs. Please assist. I have only located several yards in Australia and they do not sell internationally.

Okay can’t remember the name but it would have come from Forsyth fabrics in Atlanta or Lewis and Sharon Fabrics. Some of the people who Are working there have been there forever. Maybe you Can call them explain the situation and send a picture. I think it was Forsyth Fabrics for some reason. Good luck.

I was trying to address the big issue that I think, if it were my kitchen, would bother me the most...deliberately mismatched cabinets or trying to make them match and failing. It's doubtful you will be able to get a perfect, or even a great, match by painting the new cabinets to try to match the new ones. I know it would bother me to have a different color on connected cabinets. I'd rather pay a bit more money to reface the existing, if Diamond offers it, and get new doors to match. Have you priced out what it would cost to replace them all? You could modify the layout a bit to add more space b/w the range and sink (the most important workspace). Maybe you could even move a couple of cabinets around to gain space. Move the "old" 36" to the other side of the range and get a 42" one (or 18" trash pullout + 24" drawer base) for b/w the range and sink. But then, you'd need new counters all around. Even on a slab, you can often move gas or water a bit in either direction, so you might be able to gain 6 to 12 inches b/w the range and sink. Sorry, there I go blowing up your budget again! I just know that over time I would be kicking myself for not doing more to match the cabinets and, possibly, to add workspace where it's needed most. If just adding the peninsula: Don't get a blind corner cabinet. They're poor cabinets. Instead, get a 27" and turn it 90 degrees or void it out completely.