I'll second Fusion's recommendation for "Goose"; I have often posted about the closely related "Ma Williams", which I obtained from SSE. Highly productive, outstanding quality as a shelly, but just OK as a snap. I tried a few "Blue Marbut" raw, but never tried them cooked as snaps. It was very productive as a black-seeded dry bean, I made some good refried beans from them. As a rule, I tend to use dual-purpose beans as shellies, rather than dry. Most shellies are usable for snaps as well, although varieties bred for snaps will generally outperform them. The best dual-purpose varieties I've tried (including the two above) are heirlooms: - "Brita's Foot Long" (pole) closely resembles the white-seeded version of Kentucky Wonder, but with more flavorful seeds. They are roughly the size of Great Northern. The pods are tasty as snaps, but should be picked very young, before strings develop. - "Bert Goodwin" (half-runner) has long, straight pods that have great flavor as a snap. If allowed to ripen, they will form large, deep red seeds that are tasty also. Probably the best multi-purpose bean I've tried. - "PI 507984" (bush) is an otherwise unnamed bean from the USDA, collected in Hungary. The young pods are OK as snaps, but its best use is as a shelly. The beans are borne in great numbers on very vigorous bushes, and are easily shelled. They are deep red w/white spots, and extremely large in shell stage, close to 1" long. The flavor is very rich, and the shellies keep much of their color when cooked. The red turns to nearly black when dried. To the best of my knowledge, the last three are unavailable commercially; Salt Spring Seeds (Canada) carries "Brita's", but will not ship to the U.S. If you are interested in trying any of them, I'd be happy to send you some seed, just contact me through my member page if interested. Oh, and lest I forget... the best dry bean I have grown is "Soissons Vert", a pole "flageolet" variety with light green seeds roughly the size of Great Northern. It is not usable as a snap, but the shelly is gourmet quality, and it makes a great dry bean.

I've been designing my kitchen in an old house and have looked at different several range options because of challenging design issues. I'm not real clear about your layout with the pennisula and the offset of it from the corner. Ideally, you should have a minimum of 18" counter space on one side and 12" on the other. I've decided to put my stove where the sink is and put the sink in an island. Don't get a commercial restaurant range what ever you do. They are not made for residential use and pose greater clearance and ventilation issues. They aren't self cleaning. It is code for GAS TOP cooktops (check your county or state) to have 6" of non combustible material the back and sides of the stove top, whether there is a wall at the back it or not. If you have no wall behind the range and no wall within 6" of either side, you could get a slide in range with pop-up hood (ventilation) Thermador makes a good one, but not cheap and takes up room in back of the stove top. A slide in possibly with IKEA's stainless child protector that sits on the front of a stove top, but I don't see why you couldn't use it at the back if you have even the tiniest ledge for it to sit on. It is just a 3-sided piece of stainless, about 6" tall and totally removable. Make sure that you get a range with ventilation to the outside, whether it is a slide-in with a downdraft, pop-up or hood. Does anyone think keeping the oven open a bit till it cools would help with the moisture and/or oxidation problem? Most ovens should be kept open while broiling, don't they? All ranges are made to install into cabinets with wood, so I doubt that the sides or the range itself are an issue. The clearance specs most likely refer to the stove top. You should check out the IKEA catalog online or go to a showroom if feasible for small space design ideas. They also have their own appliances made by whirlpool, but no dual fuel. Sealed burners can't be repaired and are expensive parts. But a sealed range top under the burners are a different story, make cleaning easier and stuff from getting into the oven section. All ovens vent some heat and moisture somewhere. In a free standing range there is usually an opening behind the cook top under the back control(?) panel. Wiping spills and splashes in the oven quickly with water and vinegar will help keep the enamel from corroding. self cleaning can only do so much, and it's not practical to use it too often. A silicone liner on the bottom is great for containing spills from the oven bottom. Anyone know of a product out there to inhibit rust and corrosion that is non-combustible? Maybe something for salt water boats? I think all of the ranges out there are crap. The electronics _ _ _ _! and are probably made to last until the extended warranty expires. Sometimes they last! Parts come from China with the exception of the upper range of American made products like Wolf. Good Luck!

I think you are asking a question about the effect of the cooking mode on the different items you are cooking, not the size of the oven capacity, that is, not a question about whether all the items you mention will fit at the same time. That would depend on the size of your turkey! I cook whole turkeys on Convection Roast mode. This is what Wolf recommends in their DF manual. To paraphrase the manuel, in Convection Roast mode, heat from both convection fans, plus heat from the broil element, intensify the radiant and convective heating in the oven. It works very well at sealing in the juices. The regular Roast mode works fine too. In that mode the bake (from the bottom and broil elements (from the top) are use, cycling on an off to maintain the temperature I think it would be fine to have a pie or stuffing in the oven for a short amount of time in the Convection Roast or regular Roast mode. But my pies come out best when I use the Convection Bake mode for the full 35 to 45 minute baking time. This mode combines the two convection elements with heat from the bake element located beneath the oven floor. If you needed to have everything in the oven at the same time for 30 or 45 minutes I think I'd put everything on Convection Bake or regular Bake. Otherwise I'd be worried that the intensity of the broiler heat element on the Roast mode would be a bit too much for the pie. All of that said, the DF Wolf oven is a dream machine for baking, broiling, roasting, etc. Others may argue that the burners on the CC or BS are better and more powerful. But the Wolf DF range would be pretty hard to beat as an oven.

No problem and I appreciate you being ok with me bumping into your exchange here- I am following this with alot of interest. Just quickly, on my issue, the installer came back out. At first he said this was normal as shared earlier and had to be told (from a non-expert) that this was not normal at all. It seems that he made some type of wiring adjustments (unknown since my wife cant follow any of this when she was watching and asking) and then adjusted settings within the setup of the Edge Thermidisstat. We are currently running oil heated-water baseboard as the backup and then the Performance series HP system (EER 12.5, SEER 15.5 and HSPF 9) cant find the AHRI# handy. Temps have been consistently at between 28 and 34 degrees here in Viginia for the last 5-7 days. We are having to manually switch from HP to the oil heat system for right now since I dont want this installer messing with anyting else to connect a relay that allows both to be working from the one thermostat. I will do that later (hence reason for following this discussion closely) I am tracking kW useage off the meter. Here's what I am seeing: Set the HP Edge at 68 degrees and it holds house temp steady wihtout having to use AUX at all. Set the oil heat-boiler at 66 setpoint(manual) It seems that only infrequently will the boiler kick on to augment the HP (running simul right now) Energy useage has been between 3.12 and 3.77 kW per hour across last 5 days (taken in 24 hr periods). VaPOwer is at about .06 cents per kW right now I think, so I'm looking at what 744 hours per month at avg 3.44 kW (.20 cents) per hour= $153.00/month. This is for a brick ranch, 1820 sq ft house