Hi Judith: Muriate of Potash is potassium chloride, salt index of 116.2, very high, that's the stuff we use to de-ice in zone 5a winter. I would not use that stuff on any plants. Sulfate of potash has salt index of 43, NPK 0-0-50, plus the sulfate part which makes it more water soluble. The safest potassium with no salt would be chop-up banana peels soaked in water. Banana peels NPK is 0-3-42. MiracleGro Moisture Control potting soil (blue bag) already has slow-released fertilizer for 3-months, no need for additional fertilizer. What it doesn't have is calcium, essential for root-growth. I put granular gypsum bought from Menards on top of my roses ... after 1 month of spring rain, that didn't dissolve. Gypsum is 22% calcium, and 17% sulfur, but it varies with brand .. some brand contains less sulfur, and never get dissolved. The soluble gypsum from Kelp4Less dissolved easily in my tap water, pH 8, so I suspect there's more sulfur % in that one. The instant green-up and deepening of bloom colors most likely is from the sulfur %. I would dissolve the gypsum you bought from the feed store at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon, if it doesn't dissolve, then is best used in the ground. Roses Unlimited recommends mixing in 1 cup of gypsum in the planting hole. If the gypsum you bought from the feed store still doesn't dissolve, I would put less than 1 tablespoon of vinegar per gallon ... any more roses will wilt in the heat. Putting vinegar in the heat is risky, less is best. So far 4 studies pointed to calcium and extra potassium as essential in best root-growth: U. of Kentucky with Peters 20-10-20, same with U. of Mass with marigolds. Two additional studies: one with hydroponic lettuce, with the best result Masterblend 20-18-38 with added calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt). This was done hydroponic, no soil, thus the logic for Epsom salt. Another experiment is done by Ohio Link NTD center on New Guinea impatient flowers. Here's the tested ones: Peters-water-soluble 20- 4.4 -16 Daniels-soybean-base 10- 1.8 -2.5 Osmocote 3-month release 15-4-10 5-month slow-release 15-4-10 The best performance is Peters-water-soluble (NPK 20-4.4-16). The worst performance is organic soybean base, too little potassium. Potassium mobility is a 3, somewhat mobile, and gets leached out. Potassium is essential for root growth, that's the only extra fertilizer one needs besides calcium for best root growth. MiracleGro potting soil has plenty of nitrogen, I get a gigantic dark-green Excellenz von Schubert from a band, I had to chop off 2 feet of growth, before planting in ground. The safest bet: chopped up banana peels soak in water for potassium, and gypsum powder at 1 tablespoon per gallon (low salt index of 8). Plus MiracleGro Moisture Control potting soil (blue bag), which already have slow-released fertilizers. Less fertilizer is best for young bands. Below is Gene Boerner, bought from Roses Unlimited end of June sale, fertilized with the above approach. Picture taken few days ago, so it's 3-weeks of growth:

I built new and first used drylok on the walls, both outside and inside. Totally sealed and the white paint looked nice on the brick walls for moving into. Yes, the outside was treated with standard tar afterwards as well. After moving in the Radon test was at 4.6. I then used Radon-Seal on the floors which dropped it down to a 1.4 when I tested it 3 weeks later. Two coats went down. Lastly I applied an epoxy finish on the floor to give it some type of texture unil I finish off the basement. That did not reduce the Radon any further. Then only drawback I saw with the Radon-seal was that if I spilled water on the floor, like from the dehumidifier, and did not wipe it up right away it seeped through the epoxy but not through the Radon-seal. Which then caused the epoxy to bubble and seperate from the floor. So obviously its a great water sealent. To reduce the radon any more I'm considering sealing and venting the sump crock to the outside and if need be use the SANITRED around the perimeter where the walls meet the floor. They sell a compound that is thicker that can be poured in the crevice like a latext caulk. If I had to do it over again I would use the Radon-seal on the walls. Drylok was cheaper, but Radon-seal was much easier to apply using a garden sprayer then trying to get a heavy duty paint sprayer to pump that thick drylok paint. The actual radon levels are probably a lot lower in the basement anyway since we rarely keep it air tight for long periods. I have my workout equipment down there and always crack open the patio door (exposed basement in the back) when down there every day for 1 hour. I also turned a friend onto Radon-seal. His was over 7. He did 1/2 the basement and dropped it to a 4. Then he had to rip up the carpet and do the other half. Highest readings were near the sump, so he sealed and put in a power vent. Now he's under a 2. Where he lives the area is known for high radon levels and he was unaware of the issue until I told him of all the stuff I was doing for my place since being new it was all open and the time to do it.

Courtesy of another GW'er, I've found another source for hardwood stair treads at a much more reasonable price. Orubuis--I don't remember the specific product that I used on my stairs but it was some kind of penetrating tung oil. Wasn't Waterlox because I haven't used Waterlox yet. But Waterlox can go over stained wood--that much I know. Just be sure it's an oil-based stain. Another factor with wooden stairs is the noise issue. For that reason you may want a runner. My stairs are back stairs & get tons of abuse. So, yes, they have scratches. But the finish isn't worn thru, chipped, peeling, etc., all the things that can happen to film forming finishes like varnish, poly, etc. And they're easy to sweep down and clean with just a swipe of a rag vs hauling out a vacuum and living with the plain nastiness of carpet, esp. with the location & use of my back stairs. Here is a link that might be useful: Hardwood Lumber (stair treads)

you all are the best! Thanks for your feedback, it really helps. I just wish my GC, who hired this guy, would fight for quality workmanship. He is being sorta flaky and trying to side with the hardwood guys. I randomly called three reputable hardwood floor installers in my area and they all agreed that our hardwood guy did a poor job. alley2007 - how did you convince your hardwood floor guy to redo (resand, stain & varnish)? Our hardwood guy is blaming the painters for not covering the floors and tries to take no responsibilities. kiwigem - we really like the color and the sheen. While I was apprehensive about dark floor, my DH loves it and I have to give in on this one. Michelle - I heard great things about Kolbe and your casement windows are awesome! We passed electrical, hvac, plumbing and fire inspection today. We have few misc. items from the building inspection to complete but once we do, we can move in! If only we can resolve the floor situation quickly . :(