Hello All, Has anyone purchased the Keith Tutor DVDs? I have had the DVD and Book from Erik Kincaide of RockandWater.com for a while. While the quality of the Book and DVD is great, the details on coloring and finishing just aren't strong enough. I just ordered the one's from Keith Tutor and it sounds like they may take a while to get here. Any input on the KT DVDs would be great. Especially if you found a cross-reference for Australian to US materials. That is one of my major concerns about the DVD. I also looked at purchasing the JPJ School of Synthetic Rock Videos, as a hobbyist, I just couldn't justify the $950 cost. Once I receive them and watch them, I will post back with a review of the Keith Tutor ones here. Is there anyone in the Great Cincinnati Area listening here? I would love to team up on doing projects with someone. BTW Steve, your artisic ability is amazing. Since I could never 'Carve' all that detail, my plan is to use both Texture Pads and Carving techniques to achieve the look and feel I want. KB Here is a link that might be useful: Rock and Water website

Hey Dawg --- The little welder I use is somewhere around 13-15 years old and isn't even made anymore, but there are a host of better, cheaper units available these days from big names like Miller & Hobart. I really like the wire-fed, gas-shielded migs. They are by far the closest thing made to a monkey machine. As in, even a monkey could run one. Personally, I'd stay away from any of the non-gas shielded units (aka; "Flux Core Migs")like the ones in your link. They are mostly famous for sputtering, spattering & generating toxic smoke. The "gas" that the shielded units consume is generally CO2 or a CO2 blend, so there is never anything flammable or explosive involved. It is there only to provide an inert atmosphere around the arc which makes for very clean welds. The features I like most about this type of unit are...the head is very small and can get in tight spots...no "sticks" to constantly replace...the continuous feed wire is quite inexpensive compared to sticks...the power range is easily adjustable & can handle anything from about 1/4" plate (3/8" for the new 130 amp units) all the way down to very thin sheet metal which is something the sticks can't handle. I have even "welded" paper thin stucco lath to rebar with mine. A really great feature if you decide to try your hand at "metal sculpture" involving sheet metal. Whatever you go with, try to find one that will plug into a standard 110v outlet (many require a 220v supply which severely limits where you can use them). Today you can find that type in power ranges up to about 130 amps (my old one is just 90 amps & a little underpowered). With all the discounters around & online, you can probably find one these days for around $3-400 bucks including a fancy little cart. I had to pay well over $500 for mine way back when and make my own cart. But no matter which way you go...invest good money in the best helmet you can find. Eyeball replacement is always more expensive than even the best of them. PS...I have a nationally recognized metal sculptor and welding teacher who is putting together a series of welding DVD tutorials for the new website, (which, by the way, perhaps just might possibly with any luck at all maybe at last finally keep your fingers crossed be up by next weekend). He's a great guy & terrific artist who has work in collections & galleries all over America. Personally, I am looking forward to finally learning from a pro how I'm supposed to be doing all this. All my best ---Tango

Though a very old thread, it is likely there will be some, like myself, reading and needing accurate information. In pursuit of truth, I comment on the part of the thread dealing with copper and concrete. The waterline from the water main to my house and a multitude of other houses is made from 3/4 inch copper, traverses the 8-inch concrete foundations and exits into the basement by penetrating through 4-inch concrete floors. My house has been here since 1970, as have been all on my block. Neither I, nor any of my neighbors, have had a problem with deteriorated copper lines. Were a copper/concrete interaction a problem, it would surely have emerged in at least one of our homes. 'Nuf said.

Here's what I found when I did a search for Squished Pennies. No tricks there Pooh, You put in a penny in a squishing machine, and you get the same coin back, no foolin!! My In-laws got some when they visited the Chicago Worlds Fair way back in the 30's. I found them last year. Thought they were pretty neat. From the Squished Penny Museum website, their comments: "Wait a minute, is squishing currency really legal? Absolutely! It's all in your intentions. The United States law Section 331, Title 18 prohibits altering coins or other forms of money for fraudulent uses. On the other hand, it does permit the altering of coins, such as pennies, without such intentions. For example, when squishing coins, you make a copper souvenir of your visit to a far away place. But although your squished treasures may have infinite value to you, they are no longer currency. So, squish away, unless you intend to stuff your local vending machine with 'em the next time your soda fund gets low". Electrical box KOs would be useless for any jewelry use since they rust easily, and impossible to run through one of these rolling machines with the same results as a penny. Riverview, search with Google for more info on squished pennies for more info. GG Here is a link that might be useful: Squished Penny Museum