OP returning to update. So push came to huge shove (framing started and kitchen along with it) and I had to just jump. So here is how it shook out (framed shaker style, white premiter, stained island): Custom: $17,000 (bummer!) Shiloh: $12,596 Koch: $13,188 Medallion Silverline: $11,478, Medallion Sliverline: plywood upgrade: $12,923 Home Crest: $9,333 - so low it kinda scared me? Showplace: $14,184 Based on KD which I have read and read how important that is plus you can 'hear' it in the KD's posts on here - it was down to Shiloh and Medallion. Medallion had a promotion which brought the price down a lot and the KD really quoted aggressively. I really also liked her style and she was very helpful/knowledgable. Medallion also has been around a very long time, good reviews - that also weighed heavily. The Shiloh KD also very helpful/knowledgable. I liked them from the start. They have free glaze although I'm not sure I'll use it. Still thinking on that one. A little unsettled at the recent bad review on GW regarding them. BUT, that was just 1 review and nothing is ever perfect. In the end - it came down to PAINT color and door style. I like the bevel in the Shiloh lancaster shaker and Medallion's was a straight 90 degrees. I could get over that though. The paint however - for Medallion the White Icing seemed so bright white while the Divinity felt too yellow. That was the clincher. Shiloh has 4 shades of white and I like a couple of them. I am debating between Polar and Soft White. Side note: I had so much time but felt like I waited until the last minute getting quotes, etc.. So worried about making the wrong decision or paying more than I needed or getting a better cabinet than I really needed.... I ended up not getting the last quote until Sunday (as in 2 days ago - KD super busy) and they started framing yesterday. So I showed up at the job site to see they had framed the kitchen windows (spaced incorrectly from the printe) and had to decide right then and there. Just like that - decision made. So thank you all for your help thus far with determining where costs are and how/where to cut them. This kitchen quoting business has been quite the process. Now I need to fine tune the design and choose a paint and stain and away we go. Gee that sounds simple doesn't it? ;)

I use the box to both support the wall cabinet and as a platform to level it in all directions before placing the permanent shims. Base first, walls first is a topic like religion and politics. I was taught bases, about 2/3 of the cabinet installers I know do base the others walls. Reasons. If you are going to run into a problem it will be in the bases. Easier to align walls to bases (meant to say talls) , allows faster time to template. I can then use the box system which makes it far easier to get dead plumb and level, get shims placed properly in relation to screws and not over torque them. (important especially for inset). Lastly I'm short and typically installed solo, no way I could do that with a ledger. I've never damaged a base cabinet but I do protect them. I've also never dropped a wall cabinet. I also use a system of 3" ply strips. Place those along the back and edges of each cabinet. Shim and level those to a whisper above finished floor height. Pin them to the floor. Then bases are dropped in and screwed. Have to carefully plan any exposed end cabinets. While this works best when also putting in a new floor.... I find it so much faster and accurate that I will even cut down the sides of all the bases to have the height needed for the ply. Using a sled for a circular saw and a combination square I can cut ten an hour. It prevents having a land locked shim that needs adjustment. Very useful with really bad floor variation. Alternative is cabs with no sub base and site build it instead. This post was edited by jakuvall on Thu, Dec 11, 14 at 11:15

One thing you didn't say was whether your BS is gas or electric. They do make electric wall ovens. I am going to assume you have the gas range oven as it is more common. Not everything needs convection or should use convection. If you are baking, use the convection. Roasting, don't use convection. Gas ovens without convection produce superior results when roasting. If you are baking and need even heat throughout for cooking and browning, reduce the temperature by 25 degrees. If the recipe calls for cookies at 375, cook them on convection at 350. The times should be similar or a little less. You will have to test for doneness. It's a more manual method of baking. Now days, many electric ovens will do the temperature conversion calculation for you when you select convection mode. People have forgotten that they need to do this. With the BS gas, you will have to go old school and do the conversion in your head. One thing that you need to be aware of is the need for extra pre-heat time. It's really important that the oven be at full temperature. This takes time and it's a big oven to heat. So, give yourself a lot of time for pre-heat. That may be one of your difficulties, an oven that isn't at full heat. I would also get an oven thermometer and keep it in the oven. I never trust my ovens. I've cooked in too many different ones to trust them.

The beige rooms were more interesting than one usually sees, and the first bedroom especially appealed to me. If I had to move again almost everything would come along, most importantly my collection of Chinese porcelain and the many paintings and other art on the walls. Also my parents' dining room table, most of the other furniture and most of the rugs. Also of course our books. Any place would almost instantly feel like home. I would have to leave my garden with its collection of many antique roses. Fortunately, most of them can still be acquired.