There are two potential problems with the door stops that attach to the hinges. 1) In our old house, we had hollow core doors and one time a teen-aged visitor tripped over his own feet and fell against the door pushing it hard up against the doorstop that was on the hinge. The hingepin doorstop actually punched a hole right thru one side of the door! The bottom several inches of hollow core doors have a solid interior which protects against regular door stops pushing thru but the edges (sides) are actually hollow. If you have solid core doors, this shouldn't be an issue for you. 2) Hingepin door stops don't work for doors that you want to have swing open nearly 180 degrees. You can set hingepin door stops to allow the door to swing open a maximum of maybe 135 degrees or so but, more than that, and they just don't work. They work best for doors that only swing open about 90 degrees or a little more. And, you have to make sure the hingepins stops will fit the hinges on your doors. Our exterior doors have extra large hinge pins and the doorstops we bought wouldn't fit. Have you considered using wall-mounted door "bumpers" instead of door stops. Door bumpers come in a variety of styles and colors (some can even be painted to match your wall) and they mount on the wall where the door handle would otherwise bump. Some screw in place, some are attached with adhesive. Some people think they look a bit "industrial" but at least there is nothing sticking out on the floor to trip over or catch a toe on or get in the way when your mopping or vaccuuming. We put up a couple like them a lot. Here is a link that might be useful: door bumpers

The quality is excellent! My husband thought I was crazy at first when I splurged on all new specialty door hardware from Baldwin over the much less expensive standard big box brand, but it really does make a difference. The oval knobs that I have are so heavy and solid, and the back plates are just gorgeous! It definitely helps to see the different finishes in person before making your decision. I purchased mine online but from a local supplier, so I saved on shipping. Good luck!

The standard door today and back about the past 30 years have been bored one of two ways. The edge bore is usually a 1" hole and the standard ASA 2-1/4" mortise cut out. THis will accept pretty much any latchbolt on the market. Most latchbolts come adjustable for the two standard backsets of 2-3/8" & 2-3/4". It will be one or the other. They haven't changed this in a very long time. The only issue you may come to will be the face bore where the new lever will go. The standard in the industry is 2-1/8" hole. This hole is used today for locksets and deadbolts. Some older doors from the fifties will have a 1-5/8" bore for locks. If you have these then you can pick up a little plastic kit that has a hole saw and guide to re-bore the door for the bigger size. But most the time you can remove the old lock and put the new one in. Todays levers come with many different types of handles. Most of them curl up or down to prevent eye injuries. They also put some type of ball or curl on the ends to take the sharp point away. Hope this helps. Good Luck!!!

Hi PPS7, when I built a year ago, I decided to go w/ORB because I wanted an *older* look/feel to the home~*I* feel it accomplishes what I wanted. Yes, I did all my door hardware, door stops, as well as bathroom fixtures in the same finish. My light fixtures are mostly black w/ the exception of chandeliers. IMO, it's a personal choice. I like continuity in a home, that's why I chose to do everything in an ORB. If i were in your shoes, I would use the ORB as the black looks much to flat to me~light fixtures don't have to match in either case. Hope i've helped. ;o)