will this work with tufa I wonder? anybody do this yet? I think I found the web site needed http://www.make-stuff.com/formulas/flexmold.html This is new mold material is much superior to ordinary gelatin (mold glue) and is very easily made. It does not shrink or dry out like ordinary casting gelatins. If made according to directions it will retain all its original qualities indefinitely, and can be remelted when necessary. FORMULA: Flake Gelatin . . . . . . . 4 1/2 pounds Water . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1/2 pints Glycerin . . . . . .. . . . . 9 pounds Glucose . . . . . . . . . . .1 pound Denatured Alcohol . . 1 ounce PROCESS: Place the gelatin in a large container and pour the water over same; then cover container with damp cloth to prevent evaporation. Mix up thoroughly with the hands every ten minutes to keep water evenly distributed, otherwise the bottom will absorb too much water and the top portion will dry out and harden. Replace cloth after each mixing. After gelatin is thoroughly softened, squeeze out all surplus water (if any), and place in double boiler and melt. A few minutes after it begins to melt start stirring and keep stirring until the gelatin is all melted and free from lumps. Then add the glycerin (which should have previously been heated) and stir until blended. Continue to stir until all ingredients are thoroughly incorporated and remove from fire. Now add the alcohol and stir until thoroughly blended with the rest of the mixture. The compound is now ready for use. Do not add water when remelting. A double boiler can easily be made by using two metal buckets or pans, one larger than the other. Put a few stones in the bottom of the larger container and partly fill with water. Then put mold compound into smaller container and place it in large container. There should be enough water in large container to come up at least half way on outside of small container. The stones are to prevent the small container from touching the bottom and thereby burning the mixture. Leave unused material in container in which it was melted. HOW TO GET THE ABOVE COMPOUND TO MAKE MOLDS: First select the article you desire to duplicate. Almost all articles can be duplicated, such as celluloid novelties, metal toys, dolls, etc. Articles cast in compositions, book-ends, emblems, etc. If the article to be cast is very simple, with one entire side flat like a book-end, emblem, or plaque, it is only necessary to lay it on some flat, smooth surface, like glass or marble, face up. Place a frame of wood or metal bars around it, having oiled the object and other parts well; then pour the pliable mold composition over it. However, for more complicated things such as door stops and novelties in forms of dogs, cats, dolls, etc., you will have to make a mold in two pieces. To make two piece molds, plaster should be used to reinforce the mold. To make good molds you must bear in mind that both this compound and rubber gives under the weight of the casting material. Therefore, some means must be used to hold molds made from these materials in shape. It must be made so that the mold can easily be removed from the reinforcing shell so that the mold may then be removed from the casting without damaging it. After you have applied the molding composition or last coat of rubber and compound starts to set - spread about 1/2 inch thickness of plaster mortar over it with a trowel, let set and then remove it. For full body molds in two parts - make one half, let it stand until set, cut notches in the plaster shell around the edge that will be spliced to the other half and then apply rubber and plaster to the other half. To prevent the plaster sticking, coat the splice edge of the first half with two coats of ordinary rubber cement.

Two months ago I went to a thrift shop. I noticed a white fur jacket which I thought was rabbit. I dont know my furs. I tried it on and it fit which is surprising because I am a big girl. The lady said it looks nice on you. At the same time she was putting another fur coat on the rack - long brown. I asked how much for the jacket and she said $5 so I said what about the coat. She said $5. I took both of them. I tried the long one on when I got home. It fit even better. I took them to a local furrier. The long coat had originally come from there. They examined them and told me the jacket is tourmaline mink paw worth $1000 today. The long brown one is pastel mink worth $5000 today. The coat was in perfect condition. The jacket had a small tear at the pocket. They repaired that, cleaned them both, insured them for a year and will store them for me when I finish wearing them - all for $346. I am thrilled. I have never had a fur coat before and even if they aren't the rage anymore I wear both of mine all the time. I am in Canada and it was cold enough last night to wear the jacket out to dinner.

We've got a 1920s Chicago bungalow. We've found lots of odd stuff. Maybe not treasure, but... We found an old 1950s metal horse . He's a stallion - which I find humorous as I think he was a child's toy. He's wearing a western saddle and bridle. About a foot high and long. Weighs quite a bit. Also up in the attic is an old 48 star flag. The previous owner was a WWII vet. The flag has seen better days. We're not sure what to do with it. Great for us but not very "exciting" is the quarter round trim we found up there. The front three rooms (family room, dining room, bedroom) had all been carpeted. We spent weeks pulling up old carpet and padding and then had the floors refinished to the original golden oak color. The POs had taken the time to pull up the quarter round at the bottom of the trim. Rather than throw it away they stuck it in the attic. They even bundled it by room, all neatly labeled. Gotta love POs like that! Nothing was cleaned out of the garage. Tons of old heavy gardening tools, shovels and rakes generally. The rafters of the garage are filled with scrap wood. We've been pulling it down bit by bit. Some of it is old 2x4s. The true 2" x 4" kind. We're hanging on to those as we hope to do some remodeling at some point and they might come in handy. Found an old (1950s?) kids sled up there. We also had a mystery box. Finally pulled it down earlier this spring. Ended up, it was filled with potato sacks. ?? I've kept them as some have really cool graphics on them. I'm guessing their 1940s or 50s. I need to find a way to clean them up a bit though. Also found a cool piece of a glass window with the word LUNCH engraved in it. It's quite big and heavy, must have come from a restaurant (maybe that explains the potato sacks?) It's broken on either end. I'd like to take a stained glass class to see if I can fix it up. It would look really cool hanging in the kitchen.

Dave- I haven't used it yet. CoriAnn uses it. I'll ask her. I'll let everyone know if I see any improvement to anthracnose after I foliar spray since I don't have much blackspot. I'll also see if it helps with aphids since I have these too. Patty- funny in a not funny, haha, way! I think "ironic" might be the better word. Is anthracnose as bad a disease as black spot? My roses look awful but they still have their leaves unlike with bs. And some of the Kordes are fine as is Julia and my DA Windermere and Queen of Sweden. I'm still learning. Since it doesn't cause complete defoliation I'm thinking (hoping) it might be the lesser of two evils. I haven't sprayed yet, partly out of laziness but mostly out of concern for the environment. So many of these products are harmful to aquatic life. Our property abuts a designated swamp. I'd hate to cause damage to the eco-system there. My hydrangeas and hostas look fine so it doesn't seem as bad as yours. I'll let you know when I use the Pro-tekt. With luck it just might do what it says it does. Wouldn't that be great :-) Kelp4Less has silica powder available for hydroponics. According to the info it has recently been approved asa plant nutrient recognized by science. It's helpful for those who especially grow in raised beds or pots which CoriAnn does. I have bought from Kelp4Less. They're a bit pricy but have great service and organic products. The video is a bit long but here's the link if anyone is interested- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YB5pBCdnMTE Dave- it seems according to the Kelp4Less is used as a drench not a foliar spray. It might be because they are geared more to hydroponics though. Their's is neutral ph. There are 9 reviews by buyers that say they see improvement in stem strength, leaf strength and disease resistance. I don't think CoriAnn gets much disease in CA where she gardens but she does get extreme heat and uses Pro-tekt for heat and drought stress. Sharon