Antss is correct. I have a Miele speedcook and it functions superbly for my needs. It does have a one minute button on the front panel. It is really easy to get used to. Start everything out at 30 seconds and see how it goes. I put bacon in there to reheat at 1min and there were pieces of paper left in the microwave. 20 secs and it was perfect! The speedcook function works really quickly. The miele manual has some guides but it still takes some getting used to. I used it to bake bread the other day and it was wonderful. I am going to order an extra swizzle stick (the stick you put in liquids to heat it up) because I can never find mine when I am looking for it. They run about $4. The only thing that concerns me is the glass tray that is used in the oven. I worry that it will break easily. So far, it has proved much tougher than I expected. I have used a Le Creuset pan and several porcelain pans full of food without issue. Good luck!

dadoes has a good point. There are many frozen one or two serving size items where the power levels suggested by the maker bear little relationship to reality. The following example and suggestions work on Panasonic inverter type ovens and probably on others also: 1. Set your power level to 90% and then set your time to 30 seconds. 2. Set your power level to 10% and then set your time to 30 seconds. 3. Repeat settings sequence until you have more or less matched what you are presently doing manually. Regard the 10% as "off time". 4. Press Start. I used to run a frozen one serving Sweet/Sour Chicken Dinner "in the box" manually on a high 1 minute, off 3 minutes, on high 1 minute, off 3 minutes, on high 1 minute, off 3 minutes, on high 30 seconds, off 3 minutes, on high 30 seconds, then rest and serve and it came out steaming hot with minimal nuked rice and chicken bits. This compared to a dumb instruction on the package suggesting 5-6 minutes at full power and you got to listen to a good imitation of popcorn going off! For individual or two serving frozen lasagna I have used settings of 30% power for on and 10% for off with long off time compared to on times to achieve even heating without "nuked" edges and huge boil over of the filling. All time settings are fully adjustable. If you want a series of 10 sec on, 10 sec off, no problem. Just avoid using the 100% power default setting as it seem to stop accepting settings after a few cycles.

Not the most current pic, as we have added handles and drawer fronts, but our 240V 30" Advantium wall oven is on the left. We do not have another wall oven. This is our second oven and it gets a fair amount of use in that capacity. Baking over the holidays, warming drawer, side dishes, etc. Yeah, we also use it as a microwave as well. Our main oven is a 30" GE Mono DF. You will need to learn timing to make sure everything finishes on time, and also learn that you have to let it cool for a few minutes before you can use the microwave function. We also use it about half the time as our main oven since it is just the DW and me. The only thing I advise against is cooking a fully bone-in bird (chicken or turkey) as it makes an awful mess inside.

[long post alert - but this question comes up enough that all the info should be in one place] lalitha - I'll answer your questions, but first, a few responses to recent posts: No, you don't have to "disclose" your 240V outlet. It is not a defect and does not violate building codes. I've used GE Advantium 240v over-the-cooktop high-speed oven/microwaves, despite that every other brand available runs on 120v. No prospective homebuyers have complained their food would be ready too fast. As for resale value, nobody is going to turn down a $325,000 home because they may have to hire an electrician for $180 to install a new outlet lest they decide to change an appliance. As suburbanmd noted, it would make sense to have a dedicated 120V/20A outlet in the washer area too, but there's a good chance there already is one. Also, if you're buying a 240V washer and dryer from the same manufacturer, you can use the commonplace 240V/30A outlet that most homes already have in the laundry room (usually used for the dryer). The smaller, more efficient European machines extract more water in the washer, so the dryer needs less power, and thus they usually run on 240V/15 amps rather than 240V/30 amps like most American dryers - half the electricity. For that reason, many dryers from the brands that sell 240V washers, including Bosch and Asko, include a fused 240V/15A outlet on the back of their dryers, which you can plug the washer (also 240V/15A) into. Then you plug the dryer into the existing 240V/30A dryer wall outlet, and now you have power for both machines. No electrician needed. However, having a separate 240v/15A wall outlet and circuit gives you the flexibility to use your 240v washer with any brand of dryer, each with their own wall outlet. Another approach, which Miele used, is a separate box with two fused 240V/15A outlets that plug into the common 240V/30A wall outlet. You plug the washer and dryer into the two outlets on the extension box, which has a 5' cord that runs to your wall outlet, and again provides power to both machines. Fagor sells these too. There are two types of 240V/30A outlets in wide use in the US - the older three-prong variety and the newer four-prong (with separate ground) type; you'll need to make sure your adapter box matches the outlet you have (or install a grounded outlet if necessary, not a bad idea anyway). Dryers in the US are usually sold without power cords for this reason - both types are common. There are many good reasons to go with a 240v washer. Hot water cleans better, but can also cause certain types of stains to "set" and become permanent or hard to remove if doused with hot water. The best way to clean, therefore, is to start with cold water (which won't cause stains to set) and heat it up as it's washing - which 240V machines do considerably faster. Asko and Fagor/Brandt washers don't even have a hot-water inlet. Bosch and older Mieles do, although both can be attached to a cold water feed only (via capping the hot water intake in the Bosch, or using a Y-shaped splitter hose with the Miele). Because of the long heating times needed to reach high temperatures in 120V washers, some of them "cheat" by starting with warm water, or by not reaching the temperature you set if it's taking too long (this has been discussed in other threads). Currently available 240v washers include everything made by Bosch, everything by Fagor including the aforementioned all-in-one washer/dryer, and all 24" wide Asko washers. Miele's only 240v machine is a very expensive semi-commercial model PW6065. Maximum temperatures are 205F for Asko, 195F for Fagor, and 190F for the Miele 240v machines that were discontinued a few years ago, although some are still available new. Bosch 240v washers, although foreign-market machines heat to 190+, only go to 161F on US machines. Whether temperatures higher than 160F are helpful has been the subject of much debate in these forums and elsewhere. Miele's instructions note that it can reduce elasticity and recemmends it only for very soiled cotton items. As for which used Miele I bought, I got a W1926, which dates from the late '90s. It has a wonderfully simple, direct control panel - no arcane buttons, lights, or LCD displays; no confusing cycle names like "kid's wear" or "outdoor/active" or "plaid flannel" that leave you guessing as to what the machine is actually going to do. Instead, just a few clear, consiee, properly labelled controls: one dial to set temperature (tap cold to 190F, in seven increments), one dial for spin speed (up to 1200 rpm), a few buttons for options like extra-water rinse, extra-gentle, or high-speed wash; and only four cycles to choose from. It's like comparing a cheap camera with a "sports mode" or "portrait mode" to a pro-grade SLR that assumes you're smart and knowledgable enough to actually set a shutter speed or lens aperture. The W1918 is similar but 4" shorter front to back, with correspondingly smaller capacity but will fit completely under a standard countertop or in shallow closets, and also can spin up to an even faster 1600rpm since the filled tub weighs less. Newer 240v Mieles include the W1966 and 1986; I think the latest that ran on 240V were the W1912/1914/1915 but there may be others - basically everything before the 3000 series. These had somewhat dumbed-down controls, but also added new features like a tub light. User manuals for their machines going back decades can be found here on Miele's website But enough proselytizing from me about how great 240V Mieles are/were. I'm just some random guy on the internet, and what do I know? Instead, read this similar opinion from a notable, sadly departed historical figure whose opinion may, indeed should, carry more weight. "We ended up opting for these Miele appliances .... They are really wonderfully made and one of the few products we’ve bought over the last few years that we’re all really happy about. These guys really thought the process through. They did such a great job designing these washers and dryers. I got more thrill out of them than I have out of any piece of high tech in years." Really, when the guy who brought forth the iPhone and iPad thinks a washing machine is cooler than any gadget he's used in years, I figured it must be darned impressive. And it is.